Dm RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1063 
The Home Dressmaker 
Fall Models. —In the pictures, the 
first shows two simple but characteristic 
styles. The dress at the left has the 
long sleeves that the new styles display 
in variety, for though short sleeves con¬ 
tinue with us, there is no doubt that long 
sleeves are the coming mode. The other 
new feature of this gown is the use of 
flying panels that come below the hem of 
the skirt. The uneven line at the hem, 
either from a skirt that is irregular at 
the bottom, or from flying panels that 
fall below it, is a favored style. The 
home seamstress, who has often worried 
over getting a skirt to hang right, will 
feel that this style is a very present help 
in time of trouble, but these uneven skirts 
must have a certain system, even in their 
irregularity, and the best plan for the 
home dressmaker is to finish the skirt 
itself evenly, and then give the irregular 
effect with flying panels or sash. A sash 
draped low around the hips is usually 
worn with the ends hanging below the 
skirt. The dress figured is brown crepe 
de chine trimmed with rust-colored satin. 
The gathered skirt is bound with the 
satin around the bottom, and trimmed 
with two pointed panels, which hang be¬ 
low the hem. These panels are bound 
with the satin also, the binding being a 
fold about _ one-fourth inch wide. The 
blouse, giving a long waist line, was 
draped at the waist, so as to be finished 
without a girdle. The long bell sleeves, 
bound at the edge, have full undersleeves 
gathered in at the wrist, and trimmed 
with a number of rows of satin folds. 
The waist has no trimming except a fold 
of the satin around the round neck and 
center opening. This waist was a slip- 
on, having no fastenings except some 
snap fasteners on the lower edge, which 
kept it attached to the skirt. The skirt 
was of course attached to a net lining, 
and it was then very easy to put on 
waist, and attach it to the skirt. A 
dressier waist to wear with the same 
skirt was a rust-colored Georgette heavily 
embroidered and beaded; this was an 
overblouse with peplum, and worn with 
the brown skirt with rust-colored folds, 
it gave the effect of a separate costume. 
If it seemed desirable to have skirt and 
waist in one, it would be necessary to 
fasten the waist down the shoulder and 
under the arm, the lining under it fasten¬ 
ing down the front, while the placket was 
at the side. We prefer to see the little 
slot opening down the front with a facing 
underneath, though it is often made with¬ 
out. It is very common to see such an 
opening in both back and front, merely 
fastened at the neck edge, and left to 
gape at its will. The effect is often quite 
ugly, apart from any consideration of 
modesty. 
Fagoting as Trimming. —This form of 
trimming has come in again, and we see 
it in many handsome dresses. French 
designers have used it a good deal, espe¬ 
cially with a contrasting satin lining. 
The dress shown is dark blue challie, 
fagoted in black silk, there being four 
rows in the skirt, rows around neck and 
in sleeves, and also forming a square 
vestee effect in the front of the waist. 
This dress had an under slip of Ameri¬ 
can Beauty satin, which showed very 
prettily. The fagoting is now done by 
machine, but there are some openwork 
silk braids that give a similar effect. We 
also see dresses of fine serge embroidered 
in eyelets up to the size of a dime, show¬ 
ing the colored satin slip beneath. Most 
of the serge dresses we have seen so far 
were black, blue or brown, combined 
with henna or American Beauty color. 
Serge and Monkey Fur. —In the sec¬ 
ond group the dress at the left is black 
serge. The skirt is divided into four 
panels laid over a black satin underskirt; 
they are not joined down the seams where 
they meet, so that they open a little, 
showing the black satin, but at the bot¬ 
tom the panels are turned under, so that 
no hem is visible. On each panel is a 
disk of black satin embroidered with a 
lattice of henna-colored silk, and edged 
with henna-colored wooden beads the size 
of a pea, the disk being outlined with a 
fringe of monkey fur. The waist is en¬ 
tirely plain, the only trimming being a 
disk on each sleeve, like those on the 
panels. The special feature of this dress 
is the trimming, which is novel and at¬ 
tractive. Monkey fur—that long silky 
jet black fur that used to be so fashion¬ 
able— is the newest idea in trimming, 
and it is used like a fringe on panels, 
skirts, waists, sleeves and hats. 
Braided Serge.—T he figure at the 
right is a very plain blue serge with 
straps of broad black braid. It is very 
simple, but exceedingly smart. Neither of 
these dresses had a white collar, but 
there are few wearers who would not find 
them more becoming with a small round 
collar of organdie or batiste. 
A Little Girl in Check. —The small 
girl in the center wears a simple little 
frock of black and white check wool. It 
is very plain, in slip-on style with kimono 
sleeves., and no trimming except two 
little oval pockets. The pockets, and the 
opening at the neck, are outlined with 
white silk soutache braid, one row put on 
plain and one in little battlements. The 
dress w T as finished with plain white linen 
collar and cuffs, and the little hat was 
white felt. Children always look pretty 
in black and white check, and as a imle 
such woolens wash perfectly if necessary. 
Sewing-room Notes. — Skirts cannot 
well be shorter, and we are promised that 
they may be a little longer, but as a 
whole the short skirt promises to remain 
with us. The general line is to be very 
straight and snug; the new tailored suits 
we have seen so far have coats coming 
almost to the knees, very snug, with no 
flare at the hip. Flowing sleeves appear 
on many of the dresses; there is either a 
long flowing sleeve or none at all. The 
low waist line is to remain. 
Black or black and white is very fash¬ 
ionable, and always has a look of ele¬ 
gance, especially in rich fabrics. Red 
shades, rust, ruby, geranium and Amer¬ 
ican Beauty appear in many new hats. 
Sashes are very much worn on the 
straight long-waisted dresses, usually 
draped low and fastened at the side, with 
the fringe or ends hanging below hem. 
Black lace appears in many trimmings, 
and we have seen new French dresses 
with a two-inch border of black lace be¬ 
low the hem of the skirt. Short tight 
sle°ves of black lace are often seen. 
A group of Wjnter coats for children 
of two to six years were all in geranium 
and other soft red shades. The material 
was broadcloth, with little tippets or 
Suggestions in the Season's Trimming 
muffler collars of gray squirrel or fitch. 
Some of the prettiest were plain kimono 
shapes fastened with ball buttons of the 
cloth, and there were little round turbans 
to match, edged with fur, and trimmed 
with fur balls hanging from cords. 
Bloused waist lines show in coats, fur 
wraps and new dresses. This style is 
generally becoming, as it can be adjusted 
suitably by either plump or slim wearers. 
Brown velveteen with tangerine satin 
pipings made a very smart dress for a 
young girl. The skirt had trimming ar¬ 
ranged to form a round apron in front 
and back, and had a sash tied in a big 
butterfly bow at one side. 
A girl’s dress of blue jersey doth was 
very prettily trimmed with krimmer fur. 
Two Delicious Warm-weather Desserts 
Lemon Sponge. — One and one-half 
cupfuls of water; put one cupful of water 
in double boiler; dissolve three level ta¬ 
blespoonfuls of cornstarch in remaining 
half cup of water. Add to the above six 
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cook until 
thickened and smell of cornstarch is gone. 
Beat two egg whites stiff and stir in. 
Cook one minute more. Remove from 
fire and add juice of lemon. Sauce for 
lemon sponge: Beaten yolks of two eggs, 
six tablespoonfuls of sugar, I % cupfuls 
of milk. Cook until like cream. Flavor 
with vanilla. 
Caramel Pudding.—Put one cupful of 
brown sugar and two cupfuls of boiling 
water in a double boiler. Add two scant 
tablespoonfuls of cornstarch dissolved in 
a little water. Cook until thick. Flavor 
with vanilla. After taking from fire add 
5 or 10c worth of English walnut meats. 
Chill. Serve with whipped or plain cream. 
CLARA THOMPSON. 
INTERNATIONAL 
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