<P* RURAL NEW-YORKER 
I 103 
Notes from a Maryland Garden 
At tliis season of the year there is 
nothing more attractive in the shrubbery 
than well-grown A1 tineas, the Syrian Hi¬ 
biscus. They bloom when there are hard¬ 
ly any other flowers in the shrubbery. 
Meehan’s mallows make a big show of 
great flowers, but are soon over. But 
the Altha-as keep up an abundant bloom 
for weeks. A large plant of the double 
rose-colored variety is peculiarly fine this 
year and is covered with a bloom looking 
like a great bush of Paul Neyron roses. 
Many neglect the Althaea because it is 
old-fashioned and common, but it makes 
things gay in August with flowers from 
pure white to almost crimson. 
There seems to be some peculiarity in 
the season or atmosphere which inter¬ 
feres with the fruitfulness of some species 
of plants. The over-luxuriant growth of 
my eggplants and peppers I attributed to 
my liberal experiments with sulphate of 
ammonia. These are now tempered and 
fruiting. But my string beans, on which 
no sulphate of ammonia was used, have 
been almost barren. The first plantings 
nearly succumbed to the intense drought 
and their failure was attributed to this. 
But the succession plantings, while growing 
finely, have failed to give us beans, with 
die exception of little dwarfed pods, and 
these few in number. These beans usu¬ 
ally bear so profusely that they get ahead 
of us. and are too old before we can 
clean up a planting. Then, too, the late 
tomatoes, the plants I planned to come 
in ripe in September, and to give me 
plenty of well-grown green ones about 
the time frost arrives, are growing rank¬ 
ly. but are making very few tomatoes, 
the last week in August finding the few 
tomatoes about the size of a hulled wal¬ 
nut. Of course we have plenty of ripe 
tomatoes on earlier plants, but the pros¬ 
pect for the latest ones looks slim. Of 
our grapes the rose chafers got the lion’s 
share, in spite of dusting and spraying 
with arsenates, and the Scuppernong 
class, which escapes the rose bugs by late 
blooming, has set very few grapes. 
The first sowing of spinach has been 
made on the ground which made the can¬ 
taloupes. This for Fall cutting. About 
the last of the month I expect to make 
another sowing to winter over for Spring 
cutting. Some make a Spring sowing, 
but I find that the late Fall sowing will 
last as long in the Spring as the Spring 
sowing, both running to seed when warm 
weather comes. My first sowing of let¬ 
tuce seed for the Fall crop was made the 
first week in August, and produced very 
few plants. A second sowing will now 
be made, and will be set in the cold 
frames, as it may not head before cold 
weather. But the regular Christmas crop 
in the frames will not be sown before the 
middle of September. 
The great cantaloupe crop has ebbed, 
and the growers are happy, with the ex¬ 
ception of those who tried to market 
green cantaloupes, and had to haul them 
home to the hogs. The Co-operative As¬ 
sociation has done good work in stopping 
the rushing of green cantaloupes to mar¬ 
ket. and has made a fine reputation for 
the melons from this section, for the 
Northern people have found them superior 
to the Western cantaloupes. 
With profitable crops of strawberries, 
cucumbers and cantaloupes, our farmers 
are looking cheerfully to the final crop 
of the season, the sweet potato crop. It 
occupies a large area, and the crop yield 
is promising. A farmer passing my house 
called me out to his wagon to see a load 
of Nancy Halls, which were remarkably 
fine for August. He has quite a large 
area in this variety of the yam class of 
sweet potatoes. The much larger area is, 
of course, in the Jersey varieties, which 
are shipped North. The Nancy Halls are 
for home people, who want a really 
street potato, and not a choky one. The 
watermelon crop has been disappointing, 
but it rallied a little at the close. The 
crop was good, but the market bad. 
W. F. MASSEY. 
Grapevines on Arbor 
I am erecting an arbor (>0 feet long, 
posts set 9 feet apart from side to side, 
not the long way. At what distance 
should grapes be set to cover sides and 
top and to insure full crop? Will the 
top covering be detrimental to produc¬ 
tion ? o. n. 
Morristown, N. .7. 
The distance apart to set: grape plants 
to cover an arbor is dependent on the 
variety that is used and the soil fertility. 
Concord, Niagara, some of the Rogers 
hybrids, Worden and Catawba if planted 
S feet apart in a fertile soil will make a 
continuous cover. On the other hand, 
Delaware, Moore, Diamond and Iona can 
be planted 6 feet apart for the same ef¬ 
fect. Clinton, Clevener, Bacchus, Norton 
and others of their type should be planted 
10 feet apart for best results. Of course 
ar arbor is to serve two or more purposes 
•is a rule, and where this is done the pro¬ 
duction of fruit assumes necessarily a 
secondary place, largely for the reason 
that in pruning for cover one cannot 
prune to tho best advantage for fruit. 
Hence in pruning to cover the top the 
possibilities of good fruit production are 
much lessened. F. e. g. 
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THOS. MARTIN 304 Canal Street NEW YORK 
