Tht RURAL, NEW-YORKER 
I I fi3 
/ 
The Home Dressmaker 
Longer Skirts. —All the new models 
show longer skirts, thougli they are short 
enough as compared with years bygone. 
The length endorsed by most authorities 
is 10 inches from the ground. This is 
comfortable and modest, and we shall all 
feel relieved by the departure of knee- 
longtb frocks. Tt is a pity that a sensible 
fashion should be vulgarized by wearers 
delicieut in taste and propriety. The 
skirts also show greater fullness, but the 
long waist line remains. We also see 
more long sleeves, either the bishop type 
or full and flowing. 
A Graceful Draped Skirt. —In the first 
picture the dress at the left will be found 
becoming to a matron with a tendency to 
plumpness. The tunic, with its graceful 
slant, is attractively draped, and the 
waistline is adjustable, the soft sash be¬ 
ing tied in a bow at the left side, either 
at the normal waist line or below it. The 
waist is an exceedingly simple one of the 
mandarin style, with short sleeves. Full- 
length sleeves do not set well with a 
mandarin waist, which is too loose at 
the shoulder for the full length; the long 
sleeves must be set in at the shoulder. 
This dress was sable brown Canton crepe; 
its only trimming was handsome floss 
silk embroidery on waist and sleeves of 
rust color and tangerine, with tiny flecks 
of bright Chinese blue. It was closed 
with invisible snap fasteners, but had 
three enameled ball buttons slipped over 
loops. 
A Russian Dress. —The gild’s dress 
shown at the right is a Russian model in 
dark blue serge, trimmed with black 
military braid and jade green duvetyn. 
The green shows in the military braiding 
on the waist and sleeves, the latter being 
long and slightly bell-shaped. This dress 
was all in one piece, with a bead girdle. 
It is simple, but all the work is well- 
tailored. In making such a dress the 
home dressmaker must press the work 
very carefully as she proceeds, and not 
leave it all for one final pressing. The 
waist lining should be detachable, so that 
it may be taken out and washed when 
necessary. The bands of braid bordering 
the skirt were laid on the material with¬ 
out the jade green trimming. The bead 
girdle was jade and black. We see these 
bead girdles used on many Fall dresses, 
both for adults and juveniles. Some 
girls’ frocks like tin* one shown have a 
touch of bright red in the trimming, in¬ 
stead of green, and a girdle of red beads 
about the size of a hazelnut. 
A Pinafore Dress. —In the second 
group the figure at the left shows a style 
that has appeared quite recently, in which 
dark satin is combined with crepe de 
••bine of a different color. The dress 
figured was midnight blue satin over 
henna crepe de chine. The “pinafore” 
overdress is the same at both back and 
front, and is quite plain. The under- 
dress 1 is tucked, and also has a little line 
• d" silk floss embroidery of the same color, 
to this case tin* sleeves were short, but 
we have seen the same style with long 
flowing sleeves, tucked below the elbow. 
Sometimes both the dark overdress and 
the contrasting under portion are made 
of crepe de chine. So far all the dresses 
of this type noted showed black or dark 
blue for the upper portion, the under¬ 
dress being French gray, jade, henna, 
sand or pearl. 
A Coat Dress. —The gown shown in 
the middle is one of the new coat styles, 
which promise to be very popular. The 
waist fastens at the side, being open over 
a vest. Vertical lines of waxed ribbon 
form the trimming. This dress, with its 
low waist line, vest and vertical trim¬ 
ming, would be very desirable for a stout 
wearer. The narrow belt was black 
patent leather, the material of the dress 
being dark blue Poiret twill. The sleeves, 
which were tight to where they flared 
■ut wi'th a dip at the elbow, had two 
rows of waxed ribbon a little below the 
^boulder. It will be noted that all these 
dresses are a little longer in the skirt. 
Costume Blouses.—T he term “cos¬ 
tume blouse” is rather loosely applied to 
a variety of handsome garments that 
have progressed very far from the sim¬ 
plicity of the ordinary separate waist. 
Si me of the new ones really recall the 
old-time polonaise, for they come almost 
or quite to the bottom of the skirt (which 
is not very far these days), and are very 
elaborately beaded, braided and embroid¬ 
ered. Crepe de chine is the favored 
material, and the figure at the right 
shows one of these blouses in this mate¬ 
rial. This has a tunic coming almost to 
the knee. It is marked by an unusual 
eowl collar of white crepe de chine, and 
full bishop sleeves, gathered in at the 
wrist. A lino of faggoting outlined the 
tunic and sleeves. This blouse costs 
about .$30 ready made but really makes 
a dress, being worn over a plain separate 
skirt. In black, navy or rust color it is 
very attractive. One very handsome style 
in a costume blouse comes right to the 
bottom of the skirt, being worn over a 
sill- slip. This blouse (if we were old- 
fashioned we should call it a polonaise) 
was also of crepe de chine, elaborately 
beaded and embroidered on sleeves, bodice 
and edge of tunic. 
Trimmings. —Black cire ribbons—that 
is. the smooth lustrous waxed effect—are 
offered for both dress trimmings and mil¬ 
linery. Rows of narrow cire ribbon are 
often used to trim the fashionable long 
flowing sleeves of Georgette or Canton 
crepe. 
Beaded girdles with ends of beaded 
fringe are popular on dark gowns, and 
there are also some striking girdles of 
bright-colored wooden beads terminating 
in tassels. The straight one-piece dresses 
make the girdle or sash a necessary trim¬ 
ming, and many show very striking ef¬ 
fects Silk braid for girdles of twisted 
tricolette was seen for 85 cents a yard. 
Handsome black braid for this use was 
1*2 cents a yard. These braids are fin¬ 
ished at the end with tassels or other 
ornaments. Corded dress girdles of 
In-aided tricolette with fringe, tassel or 
ball ends, in a variety of colors, cost 
from $2.50 to $5. 
Millinery. —'Fall bats are very large 
or very small—a great majority of the 
fashionable models shown are of velvet. 
In colors red .certainly leads, and it is 
shown in every shade from vermilion and 
soft geranium tones to deep ruby. There 
are some very handsome purplish reds, 
dahlia and petunia colors, anc^ also warm 
purples. Black predominates, however, 
and there are some handsome large draped 
velvet shapes with drooping trimming 
that are very becoming. A very dark 
shade of sable brown is also featured. 
One of the newest millinery decorations 
is the Venetian or Spanish comb, an orna¬ 
ment like the top of a showy comb stuck 
through the draping. Such an ornament 
must be handsome to look well, but we 
often find that simple millinery orna¬ 
ments of conservative type are more ex¬ 
pensive than the showy ones. Other 
trimmings are ostrich feathers, both nat¬ 
ural and glycerined, which are used very 
freely, quills and wings, bright-colored 
pins, cabachons and metal ornaments. 
There is a good deal of trimming droop¬ 
ing from the brim, but the chief aim seems 
to be an odd or novel pose. The wearer 
lias wide latitude to select something be¬ 
coming to her general style. 
Fabrics for Fall and Winter.— 
Serge is featured in many new models, 
and for young girls blue serge continues 
a leading favorite. Wool jersey cloth is 
too useful to be given up, and we re¬ 
cently saw a sale at $1.95 a yard, 51 
inches wide, in a variety of colors. Irish 
tweeds in mixed colors, 55 inches wide, 
are $3.25 a yard, and most attractive. A 
recent sale offered all-wool velour, 51 
inches wide, at $1.55 a yard; fine twill 
serge, 54 inches wide, navy and black, 
81.60; velour de laine, 54 inches, $2.50, 
and all-wool tricotine, 47 inches wide, 
$2.25. It will be noted from these re¬ 
ductions that retailers really wish to 
sell, and regular prices on dress goods 
are certainly lower. Among silks, satin 
and crepe de chine are in high favor; we 
have noted both in excellent quality, 40 
inches wide, for $1.95 a yard. Canton 
crepe is another favored fabric. We have 
seen some handsome gowns in black or 
sable brown velvet. 
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MEN’S SUITS Tallore4-to-mea«ure. $25.00 MEN’S TROUSERS. Tailored-to-measure $5.50 
MEN’S OVERCOATS. Tailored-to-measure, $29.50 BOYS’ SUITS, atandard iizea, 6 to 17 
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,/Tn'Ti 
a n kJ 
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ASPIRIN 
Name “Bayer” on Genuine 
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Bayer Manufacture of Monoaeeticacid- 
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TURKISH TOWELS 
DIRECT FROM THE MILL 
AVer will send you 1‘o.tpnM for $2.00 our special 
bundle of Assorted Towels, Retail value 42..50. 
MC1XKY BACK IF DISSATISFIED. 
STERLING TEXTILE MILLS Clinton, Mass. 
Send postal for our other mail order offers. 
P. of H. FLOUR-PURE BRAN 
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Will hold 52 issues, or more. 
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price, 65c. 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 West 30th St. New York City 
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