The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1283 
The Home Dressmaker 
Falling Prices. —There are many 
signs of reduced prices on woolen goods, 
women’s w r ear, and many lines of dry 
goods. One of the big commercial buyers 
in New York recently stated that both 
reduced purchasing power and the “shop¬ 
ping habit” are causing consumers to de¬ 
mand garments of medium price that also 
possess good quality. During the costly 
years, when retailers charged all the con¬ 
sumer would endure, many women learned 
to “shop around” more than ever before, 
and they now have a habit of efficient 
buying. Says a man who purchases 
largely for retail stores: 
“You can’t fool the majority of women. 
They know value better than ever. They 
are demanding low prices, but insisting 
on quality. The popular retail prices on 
garments for the next few months will 
be from $10 to $25 for dresses, from $15 
to $39 for suits and from $20 to $30 for 
coats. Plenty of good merchandise will 
Velvet Dress with Peasant Sleeves and 
Velvet Coat 
be available at these figures, I believe.” 
■Staple cotton goods, however, are ad¬ 
vancing in such lines as sheets, pillow 
cases, denims and other domestics. 
Velvet and Brocaded Chiffon. —In 
the illustrations, the first picture shows at 
the left a dress of brown chiffon velvet 
with sleeved guimpe of figured and bro¬ 
caded chiffon. The skirt has a deep 
tunic that almost covers the underskirt 
except at the sides, where it slopes up a 
little. This is gathered at the top with 
an upstanding frill and a very narrow 
girdle. The plain long waist was without 
sleeves, and with the wide shallow “ba¬ 
teau” neck line now so fashionable. The 
guimpe of bronze chiffon, figured with 
dull rose and fawn and brocaded with 
gold, showed at the neck, while the 
sleeves were of the new peasant style. 
It will be noted that they are very broad 
and loose, set in a large armhole. At 
the bottom they are gathered into a nar¬ 
row tight band of velvet. The peasant 
sleeves are a new note, the width and 
looseness extending from shoulder to 
wrist. Some of them are gathered in, as 
in the picture, while others are left loose 
and flowing. The neck line is higher than 
it has been for several years. Many of 
the newest evening dresses are now quite 
as high as the waist in this picture, but 
have no sleeves of any kind. Afternoon 
dresses of black or dark colored satin or 
velvet in the various sleeveless styles are 
often worn over a long-sleeved guimpe of 
crepe de chine in some brilliant color— 
tangerine, jade, orange or henna, which 
offers economical possibilities in making 
over one’s old clothes. The hat shown in 
the picture is a small shape of Malay 
brown duvetyn, with a tangerine ostrich 
tip drooping at each side of the brim. 
A Velvet Coat. —The child’s coat 
shown was geranium red velvet, having 
a dropped shoulder to which the sleeves 
were gathered by several rows of shir¬ 
ring. It was slightly gathered in at the 
neck, but entirely plain otherwise. At 
the neck with a little tippet of fitch, fin¬ 
ished with a small tail and animal head. 
We see these little old-fashioned fur tip¬ 
pets with many children’s coats. The 
little hat, which looks like a bonnet with¬ 
out strings, is also of the rose-colored 
velvet. 
A Blouse and Skirt. —In the second 
picture, the figure at the left shows a 
style of dress often seen in jersey cloth— 
an accordion-pleated skirt and a slip-on 
overblouse. Many of these are entirely 
plain, with collar and cuffs of white or 
colored kid. The one figured was made 
more attractive by a novel use of wool 
embroidery. The color of this dress was 
reindeer, a soft light brown, and it was 
embroidered in henna wool. The em¬ 
broidery, dotted over the lower part of 
the waist and sleeves, was simply four 
cross lines of the wool. It could be done 
easily and rapidly, and added wonder- 
fnily to the effect of the dress. The round 
collar and cuffs, in this case, were white 
linen with a henna-colored binding. The 
plain sports hat was of reindeer cloth. 
More Wool Emrroidery. —In the cen¬ 
ter is a handsome model of dark blue 
Poiret twill embroidered in red wool. A 
broad band of the embroidery bordered 
the skirt and the short military jacket. 
The wide three-quarter sleeves had a 
band of embroidery down the outside and 
edging the cuff, while the high flaring 
collar, that came up under the ears, was 
also covered with the embroidery. The 
jacket and high collar were fastened with 
small ball buttons. A broad folded girdle 
gave the usual long-waisted effect. It 
will be noted that in this as in other new 
dresses the sleeves are quite wide, and 
set into large armholes. The hat worn 
with it was sand-colored velours with a 
blue and red band. 
A Cape Dress. —Many frocks for 
children and young girls show a detach¬ 
able cape to match. The child’s figure 
at the right shows a dress of dark blue 
jersey cloth trimmed with black and 
white braid. It is very plain, slightly 
bloused, long waisted, and finished at the 
high neck and elbow- sleeves with the 
braid. A baud of braid extends from 
neck to hem on one side, where the dress 
is closed like a Russian blouse. The 
cape, which is gathered to a shallow yoke 
edged with braid, comes just around the 
shoulders, but does not meet in front; it 
is hooked to the collar at each side. Such 
a cape is a sensible addition to an 
active child’s dress, and is very becom¬ 
ing. The hat shown is a soft shape of 
dark blue corded silk, trimmed with a 
band and falling ends of sand-colored 
ribbon. 
Sewing Room Notes. —One may have 
a foundation pattern of skirt or waist 
that is particularly well fitting and de¬ 
sirable for repeated use. In such case 
it is an excellent plan to paste the pat¬ 
tern onto thin muslin, using a thin flour 
paste, and smoothing it carefully so that 
it is perfectly flat. If any alterations are 
required, they should be made first in 
the tissue paper. If a pattern must be 
lengthened or shortened, remember that 
this must not be done at top or bottom, 
but in the middle. A waist pattern is 
made longer, usually just above the waist, 
or shortened at waist and shoulder, a 
sleeve pattern above and below elbow, 
and a skirt pattern half way down its 
length. Merely lengthening or shortening 
at the top or bottom spoils the lines of 
the patterns. 
Velvet and velveteen are popular dress 
Jersey Cloth, Poiret Twill and Juvenile 
Cape 
materials, and are often made up for 
young girls. 
The round neck line is only moderately 
low on fashionable frocks, and with the 
long flowing or slashed sleeve and slightly 
longer skirt the style of the Autumn 
gowns is much more modest than for a 
year or more past. 
Some of the new slip-on dresses even 
show a high collar, which may be brought 
close about the neck, or worn open and 
turned back, like the convertible collar 
on tailored blouses. 
Pleated gymnasium bloomers of navy 
blue serge, well made, were recently seen 
for $3.95, sizes six to 20. These are a 
necessity for the schoolgirl not only for 
physical training, but for general wear 
they possess many advantages over 
skirts. 
Kasha cloth is a new French fabric 
used for handsome afternoon dresses; it 
has a camel’s-hair finish, and costs $6 a 
yard. An imported model seen had a 
long-sleeved bodice of deep yellow Kasha 
cloth with a skirt of navy blue Poiret 
twill, the whole being richly embroidered. 
Many of the new slashed or flaring 
sleeves are lined with a bright color— 
red, tangerine, jade or peacock, the lining 
being usually of crepe de chine. 
Wool jersey cloth 54 in. wide was $2 a 
yard. It was woven in a tube, like pil¬ 
low case muslin, and was very convenient 
to make up in a straight one-piece dress, 
either sleeveless or with kimono sleeves. 
The preferred trimming on such a dress 
is embroidery in peasant style, of silk 
or wool, or both combined. There is a 
good deal of floss silk embroidery this 
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25 
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