The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1385 
The Home Dressmaker 
Prevailing Ideas. —In studying Fall 
gowns, it is noticeable that many of them 
give the effect of an irregular hem line 
by means of applied trimming. Usually 
it is hanging panels at the sides, as in 
one model figured, or a cascade of lace or 
fringe, but evening dresses often have a 
net or lace over-drapery that hangs irreg¬ 
ularly all around, or in the form of a 
narrow train at the back. We also see 
vertical braiding so applied that there 
are loops of braid hanging below the 
skirt at each side. Another marked fea¬ 
ture is width and trimming of sleeves. 
Waists are quite plain and long, often 
bloused. In evening dresses we see a 
wide panier effect at the hips, with a 
long tight bodice having a high bateau 
neck and no sleeves. 
Kilted Tartan. —In the first picture, 
the child shown at the left shows a kilt- 
pleated plaid skirt with a plain velvet 
jacket. One of the juvenile outfitters on 
Fifth Avenue shows a number of dresses 
of this type, and the style is very prac¬ 
tical and becoming. The model pictured 
was a plaid containing a good deal of red, 
with a black velvet jacket closed with 
ball buttons and loops. The collar and 
cuffs were white linen edged with a 
looped trimming, which may be bought 
by the yard; it is a very pretty trimming 
for children’s dresses, blouses, aprons, 
etc. The kilted skirt is attached to an 
underwaist, and may be worn with the 
jacket either with or without a separate 
blouse. A middy blouse may be worn 
with it, either of white wash goods or of 
colored serge, thus making a separate 
dress, without the velvet jacket. Such a 
dress is practical, and also pretty and 
becoming. This Fall some of the stores 
are offering middy blouses of scarlet 
serge or flannel, which would be attrac¬ 
tive with a skirt of oue of the dark tar¬ 
tans. We think the Matheson, McLeod 
and McAlpin tartans are what we have 
in mind—a good deal of dark green and 
black, with a few threads of red, but per¬ 
haps Some Highland reader knows them 
better than we do. They all look well 
with a black velvet jacket. The little hat 
is dark green velours trimmed with a 
crocheted cord and balls of wool. Half 
a yard of 54-in. velours will make such 
a hat, which is not beyond the skill of 
the home milliner. Always cut a paper 
pattern and fit to the hat shape before 
cutting the goods. The covering for the 
brim, and its facing, should be carefully 
cut in a circle to fit, not joined from a 
band. 
Ideas in Sleeves. —The dress at the 
Tight, of dark blue French serge, is 
noticeable for its sleeves and trimming. 
There is a plain skirt with bloused waist 
and low waist line; it fastens invisibly 
under a seam at the side of the front. 
The trimming is a fancy braid or gimp, 
almost like furniture gimp, a combination 
of red, black and green. Around the 
waist this gimp is edged with narrow 
black fringe. The sleeves, while not 
tight, are not as loose as the peasant 
type, but have a wide flowing cull ap¬ 
plied on. almost like some medieval cos¬ 
tume. These cuffs had a facing of the 
braid on the inside, and there were straps 
of braid on the ends of the collar. This 
dress, while simple, was very attractive, 
and these flowing cuffs would be an ex¬ 
cellent idea for bringing sleeves up to 
date, when making over an old dress. The 
bat, was a mushroom shape of velvet, 
trimmed with an ostrich feather band. 
The end of the feather is brought down 
under the brim. 
Jade Green and Black. —In the sec¬ 
ond picture, both the children show com¬ 
binations of jade green and black. The 
dress at the left was jade green crepe de 
chine, plain and straight, with long wide 
sleeves notched at the bottom. A straight 
tabard panel of black velours extended 
the full length of the dress, from neck to 
hem, in both back and front. The neck 
was bound with green. Under the arms 
the two panels were held together on each 
side by three narrow straps, of the black 
material. At the ends of these straps, 
or each side, were three little green 
buckles of imitation jade. The little 
dress at the right was of black velours 
with sleeves and sash of jade green crepe 
de chine. The waist has drop shoulders, 
the wide plain green sleeves being set in 
with a trimming formed of little black 
loops. These loops also furnish the round 
neck. The sash, looped low at one side, 
and the sleeves, are finished at the edge 
with picot. Both these dresses were plain 
in style, but the combination of color was 
very effective. 
Black Serge. —The dress in the center 
is black serge with black and white wool 
embroidery. It will be noticed that while 
the skirt is perfectly plain, it has on each 
side a flying panel that falls two or three 
inches below the hem. This style of trim¬ 
ming is very popular, and is seen on a 
great many skirts. Sometimes the panels j 
are square across the bottom, sometimes 
slightly sloping. The wide peasant 
sleeves have four bands of the embroidery, 
and embroidery gives a square panel ef¬ 
fect on the waist. This embroidery was 
very simple, merely simple stitches of ( 
white wool outlined like a braid, but it 
formed an effective trimming. Such em¬ 
broidery adds greatly to the attractive¬ 
ness of the home dressmaker’s work, 
while one always pays more for hand 
embroidery on a readymade dress. The 
hat is of soft felt, sand colored, bound 
with grosgrain ribbon, and finished with 
a ribbon rosette. Small felt hats arc 
much favored; the edge of the brim is 
bound, and the trimming is of ribbon or 
quills. One often sees a broad quill 
pierced through crown or brim, standing 
out at a becoming angle. The better of 
these hats are of soft flexible felt, very 
serviceable. 
Seen in the Shops. —Many of the 
modern bungalow aprons are meant to 
take the place of a house dress, or they 
are convenient to put on over an after¬ 
noon dress, insuring perfect protection 
while preparing the evening meal. Some 
pretty aprons recently seen were of flow¬ 
ered cretonne or black sateen. Those of 
black sateen w r ere piped with a color, and 
trimmed with colored embroidery. They 
had ornamental pockets, embroidered on. 
The house dress or apron pattern No. 
2035. pictured on page 10S6, issue of 
September 3, would t>e very pretty in 
sateen or cretonne, or in solid color eham- 
bray with bindings of check gingham. 
Such an apron makes a very acceptable 
Christmas gift. 
Women’s greatcoats are cut on the lines 
of a mannish overcoat, and are very 
smart in tweeds, overplaids and other 
heavy woolens or homespun. They are 
not cheap, but are very durable, and 
especially good for country wear. 
Some plain three-piece . jersey suits 
which have been selling quite reasonably 
this Fall will be very useful in the Spring. 
They consist of a jumper dress to be worn 
with a separate blouse, and. a trim little 
coat, both coat and dress having set-in 
pockets. 
Hand-loom Scotch scarfs in clan tar¬ 
tans are very handsome, warm and soft; 
they cost $14.50. 
Novelty jewelry in black and white is 
a new fashion from Paris; black onyx is 
Serge 
set in pearls or rhinestones. Bar pins, 
bracelets, earrings, pendants and hatpins 
are all very attractive. Earrings are 
very much in fashion again, sensibly fin¬ 
ished with a screw fastening, so that it 
is no longer necessary to pierce the ear. 
Hoops of jet, often quite inexpensive, 
are much in favor. 
Sleeves of contrasting color are seen 
in dark velvet dresses. Black velvet will 
show loose peasant sleeves of crepe de 
chine or Canton crepe, rust, red or jade, 
a little trimming around the neck carry¬ 
ing out the same color. 
Colored lace is one of the season’s 
fashions, gray, blue, brown, green, rust, 
etc., as well as black. It is usually imi¬ 
tation of Chantilly or blonde lace, grace¬ 
ful patterns on a net background. We 
see satin dresses with cascades of lace 
down the side of the skirt, falling bebw 
the hem, or lace paniers. Fans are made 
of these colored laces, a charming ex¬ 
ample being of bright blue lace with san¬ 
dalwood sticks. Lace makers were among 
the most unfortunate victims of the Great 
War, and the fashion for lace is really u 
work of reconstruction. 
The STEWART ONE-PIPE 
Cuts Fuel Costs h 
Schenectady, N. Y., 
October 27, 1921. 
*' Two years ago I installed a STEWART 
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casings. 
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Sales Department 
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No. 114 
Kalamazoo Stove Co. 
Mfrs., Kalamazoo, Mich. 
url Range* 
