S 1507 I 
<P>, RURAL NEW-YORKER 
The Home Dressmaker 
Taste in Dress. —A city girl remarks 
that in the little country town where she 
spends her Summers the girls dress just 
as they do in the city, only more so. 
They can buy so easily by mail that they 
wear just the same clothes as city girls, 
the same materials and colors. The one 
difference is that an extreme style soon 
runs its course in the city, and is dis¬ 
carded ; “everybody is wearing it.’’ the 
more discriminating women say, and they 
no longer care for it. In a small com¬ 
munity garments are not usually so 
quickly changed, and if an extreme style 
is selected it becomes very conspicuous 
after its first vogue is past, Really good 
styles with attractive lines do not get 
noticeably out of date, and harmonious 
colors bring out the wearer’s good points 
even though the dress is not up to the 
minute. Every woman should study the 
colors she can wear to advantage, and 
avoid doubtful ones. 
If she feels obliged to 
choose sober colors, 
she can indulge her 
fancy for bright hues 
in small accessories, 
such as a string of 
beads, or some small 
trimming. Several of 
the State experiment 
stations have issued 
bulletins on tasteful 
dress, and their sug¬ 
gestions as to color 
and style are helpful. 
Defects of taste are 
more often shown in 
excess of ornament 
than in any other 
way. At the present 
time the rather loose, 
long-waisted styles are 
kind to ' the average 
woman. That tight 
lacing has finally 
passed away was re¬ 
cently shown in Lon¬ 
don, when an effort 
was made to find a 
young woman with a 
13-in. waist, to wear a costume of the 
Medici period in a health pageant. None 
was forthcoming, though one young 
woman appeared whose waist measured 
but 15 in. Catherine de Medici is cred¬ 
ited with the invention of a steel corset, 
guaranteed to reduce any waist to 13 in., 
but the wasp-waisted woman has surely 
gone for good. 
Braided Faille. —In the first picture 
the figure at the left shows a simple 
slip-on dress of heavy blue silk braided 
in black. The blouse has a drop 
shoulder, bordered with braid, with a 
flowing pointed sleeve below. A line of 
the braiding starts under the arm, and 
extends (Jown to the hem of the skirt. 
There are three bands of the braiding at 
each side of the skirt, forming a panel, 
narrowing towards the top. The narrow 
girdle is laced with black waxed ribbon 
at each side, being shirred underneath 
with an elastic, so that it can be slipped 
on over the 
head. The round 
neck, with nar¬ 
row opening in 
the front, is 
edged with 
braid. This is 
a simple gown, 
of a style now 
very popular, 
and is suitable 
for a variety of 
materials, both 
silk and wool. 
The hat is of 
blue duvetyn. 
with b1 a c k 
quills placed at 
rather an un¬ 
usual angle. 
Canton 
C R e I> e .—A t 
the right is a 
model in marine 
blue C ant o n 
crepe, embroid¬ 
ered in red and 
black. This 
shows French 
influence in its 
1 o n g e r skirt. 
The waist is 
perfectly plain, 
wit h peasant 
sleeves edged 
with a broad band of embroidery. The 
waist line is low, and the skirt trimmed 
with a long flying panel at each side, 
falling below the skirt. The panels are 
finished with elaborate embroidery at the 
bottom, while at the top they are gath¬ 
ered to stand up in a - frill above the waist 
line. The top of the skirt continues this 
frill around the back. A narrow girdle 
of black grosgrain ribbon is passed 
around the waist, holding the frill in 
place, passing through two flat silk 
rosettes that finish the front. Panels 
or other draperies that fall below 
the hem are extremely fashionable, and 
appear on many gowns, in all sorts of 
materials. The small hat worn by this 
figure is of silk, the brim beaded and em¬ 
broidered. 
Red Crepe de Chine. —In the second 
group, the figure at the left shows a 
model of geranium rod crepe de chine. 
The long plain waist, and the full bishop 
no sleeve. 
Braided Faille and Canton Crepe 
sleeves, were simply trimmed with some 
clusters of pin tucks. The narrow girdle 
of black velvet ribbon was trimmed in 
front with three flat flowers of red silk 
with black centers. The skirt had a 
cluster of fine tucks around the hips, and 
was trimmed at each side with a rippling 
panel, which fell in a point, below the 
skirt. These panels were finished with 
a picot edge. We sometimes see these 
panels edged with beads, which are still 
very much in fashion. This dress was 
charming in red, and would also be very 
effective in black, with white beads 
around the neck and cuffs, and bordering 
the panels, the flowers being white with 
black velvet centers. 
An Evening Dress. —The very low- 
bodices of the past two or three years are 
disappearing, and the newest models are 
quite high in the neck, but with little or 
The model shown in the cen¬ 
ter of the picture was 
orchid messaline. The 
full gathered skirt had 
a corded bouillon or 
puff around the bot¬ 
tom, which tended to 
hold it out. The long 
plain waist was cut 
with long shoulders, 
but was w i t h o u t 
sleeves. The decolle- 
tege was cut in a tri¬ 
angular shape, curv¬ 
ing high around the 
back of the neck, but 
widening out where it 
was cut straight across 
the front. These wide 
corners were cut off by 
folds of white tulle, 
and a fold of the tulle 
also showed around 
the edge of the arm¬ 
hole and under the 
arm. A tiny puffing 
of the messaline went 
all around the neck 
opening, slanting down 
diagonally under the 
arm. Little pink 
satin rosebuds were dotted in the tulle 
fold around the armhole. It will be 
noted that the skirt is gathered so that 
it flares out over the hips, after the 
Spanish style. In most new dresses 
there is either width over the hips, or 
some sort of loose trimming that gives 
this effect. This is a very modest little 
frock, and was extremely pretty. The 
very scanty evening dresses of a year or 
so ago are quite pass£e, and rumor says 
that “jazz” girls are going out, too; 
apparently modesty is to become fashion- 
abb 1 once more. With the bare arms we 
see a return of bangle bracelets of all 
styles. We noticed, in one of the new 
plays, where the heroine wore a very 
pretty dress of red Georgette, the. open 
sleeves disclosed a number of red glass 
bangles on each arm. 
Black Velvet and White Beads.— 
The dress at the right was a very plain 
model of black velvet, trimmed with 
Costumes in Georgette, Messaline and Velvet 
in a s 
s e s of 
white porcelain 
bea 
ds that 
looked like In- 
dian 
wampum. 
The 
beads were 
mingl 
led with 
black 
silk braid, 
but were put on 
in solid lines. 
The 
sleeves 
were 
trimmed in 
peasa 
nt: fashion 
with 
the braid 
and 
beads, the 
other 
trimming 
b eing around 
the 
waist and 
down 
the front. 
Below the girdle 
was 
a double 
row 
of long 
black 
fur, form- 
ing 
a fringe. 
F u r 
is much 
used 
for trim- 
ruing 
now, and 
it is often placed 
upon 
a dress 
with 
no appar- 
ent 
in e t h o d , 
thong 
;h a little 
study 
shows that 
it bri 
ngs out the 
line, 
or empha- 
sizes something in the cut. 
Apron Dresses. —The useful bungalow 
apron has been gradually developed into 
pretty styles of slip-on dresses, and the 
large stores offer them in great variety. 
Some of the newer ones are of dark 
sateen, black with colored embroidery or 
other trimming, or pretty combinations of 
lighter colors. Each maker tries to get 
something new and attractive. The sim¬ 
plicity of these dresses, and the ease with 
which they are put on and adjusted, 
make them especially useful to busy 
women. Certainly there is no reason 
why any woman should wear unbecoming 
house dresses. We think that women 
who plan to make their own cotton 
dresses would do well to buy an occasional 
dress readymade. Apart from the pleas¬ 
ure of a dress one can “step right into.” 
these house dresses are made with the 
greatest economy of labor, and the home 
seamstress will find in their method of 
construction very useful hints for her 
own work. 
Sewing-room Notes. —Some charming 
little Russian frocks for small girls are 
plain smocks with raglan sleeves and 
round neck. There is no belt.; the front 
is trimmed with a deep square panel of 
cross-stitch embroidery, while bands of 
the embroidery extend down the sleeves, 
and finish neck and hem. Materials are 
white or dark blue cotton crepe, or cream 
albatross, the embroidery being in vivid 
colors. 
A very attractive tailored sports blouse 
of white dimity was banded with French 
blue linen and piped on the edge with 
orange. It was perfectly plain, with 
round collar and turn-back cuffs, and was 
priced at $0.50. 
f.ondon fashions make a feature of 
muffs, usually not very large, of oval or 
canteen shapes. The prevalence of fur 
coats lessened the use of muffs the past 
Winter or two, but with a suit or cloth 
coat the muff is a comfort, as well as a 
becoming finish. Looking at the array of 
handsome fur coats on New York streets 
one might wonder at the universal wealth 
and luxury. It is, however, rather sad¬ 
dening to a thoughtful person to see the 
fur coats worn by saleswomen in depart¬ 
ment stores, office workers, and other 
young women who work for their living. 
Such garments are not. suitable for every¬ 
day wear in our changeable climate, or 
for the jostling crowds in subways and 
street cars. It is hard for a girl to re¬ 
sist the prevalent tendency to extrava¬ 
gance in dress, but. these costly garments 
often give an untrue and unflattering im¬ 
pression of the wearer, rather than the 
admiration or approval she seeks. Even 
under the most favorable home and busi¬ 
ness conditions, we are often unable to 
see how such expensive garments can be 
purchased. 
Tweed knickerbocker suits for women 
are seen in all the good shops now; they 
consist of skirt,, coat and knickers. Goat 
and knickers are used for sport wear, 
while the skirt makes it into a street 
suit. 
Girls’ flannel middy blouses now in¬ 
clude pretty models in tan color, as well 
a< scarlet. 
Some attractive overblouses are beaded 
in a novel way, the wide girdle and 
sleeves being heavily beaded, while the 
front and back of the blouse are plain. 
The material is Gan ton crepe with iri¬ 
descent beads. 
A Hay-making Episode 
Right in the midst of haying last Sum¬ 
mer, a plank broke through in the barn 
bridge. Now, the men folks no doubt 
would patch it and “make it do” till the 
rush was over, but I had to drive the 
team over it to pull off every load of hay 
that came in, and I was afraid of patches. 
So, after everyone was out of the way, I 
proceeded to tear up the rotten plank and 
put in a new one. It was hot, the ther¬ 
mometer was flirting gaily with the !)Os; 
it was dirty, the new plank was heavy, 
and the old one stuck, and down on my 
knees in the sun and dust and grime I 
heard the aristocratic purr of a long- 
priced auto. A big long-snouted limou¬ 
sine came rolling past, and in it. rode a 
pretty lavender and white gowned lady, 
her face under the graying hair so beau¬ 
tifully done that she looked more like 10 
than 00. Her escort also wore snowdrifts 
in his locks, but their youthful spirits 
were evidenced by their unbounded enjoy¬ 
ment of the scene before them. They 
smiled and smirked, giggled and stared, 
till 1 almost joined the ranks of the 
merry myself, but I honestly didn't have 
time to laugh. That bridge was at the 
foot of a steep grade, and was no place 
to hold back a load, consequently it had 
to be ready when the load came; so I 
worked to the accompaniment of their 
jeering grins, and got it done on time, 
and a good ’oh, too. And as I worked I 
thought. The apple tree has blister can¬ 
ker; the plum, black knot: tin 1 dog, fleas; 
(lie hen, mites; and I suppose human be¬ 
ings must just “dree their weird” and 
make the best of things in the face of 
just, such aggravations and torments. And 
entirely without conceit. I couldn’t help 
wondering how the pretty lady would 
comport herself in tin* face of my neces¬ 
sity. < )f course, she might have made a 
much better job of it than T could of just 
looking pretty. Anyway. I’ve no doubt 
each of us is better off where we are ; “she 
in her little corner (or auto) and I in 
mine.” And whenever a society is start¬ 
ed for females who shall make at least 
one poor bored person smile each day. I 
want to be a charter member, please; I 
qualified last haying time. 
New York. iiarriet l. wood. 
A Case for Solomon 
AYill you tell me who owns this skunk? 
A and I> had traps set for skunk. Skunk 
got in trap owned by A. and pulled trap 
loose from tree to which it. was fastened. 
Skunk then got in B’s trap, with A’s trap 
still on his foot. A took skunk out of 
B’s trap, claiming it was his. c. M. 
In such a case one is inclined to imi¬ 
tate the judge mentioned in the Bible 
who suggested cutting the baby in two— 
so that each claimant might have part, 
lie knew from the way the two women 
received the proposition which was really 
the mother. In case of the skunk we 
think it belongs to B. While it stepped 
first in his trap, if is evident that it was 
not caught there. It would have made 
its escape. It war: finally caught perma¬ 
nently in B’s trap, and we do not see 
what right A had to take it out. 
ASPIRIN 
Name “Bayer” on Genuine 
Warning! Unless you see the name 
“Bayer” on package or on tablets you 
are not getting genuine Aspirin pre¬ 
scribed by physicians for twenty-one 
years and proved safe by millions. Take 
Aspirin only as told in the Bayer pack¬ 
age for Golds. Headache, Neuralgia, 
Rheumatism, Earache. Toothache, Lum¬ 
bago and for Pain. Handy tin boxes of 
twelve Bayer Tablets of Aspirin cost few 
cents. Druggists also sell larger pack¬ 
ages. Aspirin is the trade mark of 
Bayer Manufacture of Monoaceticacid- 
ester of Salicylicacid. 
COFFEE 
4 lbs. of Best M Oft 
SAN BO 
Pure Coffoo Ground or Boan) 
Sent Parcel Tost, Free Delivery 
witliin 300 miles. Add extra 
postage for longer distances. 
MONEY BACK IF NOT SATISFIED 
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50 BARCLAY ST., N.Y. 
TD0 Vm J)yk Stows ;ti ,<U ettn-s ' 
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SMOKE HAMS WITH KRAUSER’S 
Preparation for imparting a smoky flavor to meat. 
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cheaper, no smoue house needed. Just paint on. 
(| lit Drag Stores. Express prepaid lor 91.15. 
K. KKAUSKK & I1KO. Milton, l»a. 
n-rroU OF SLIGHTLY DAMAGED CROCKERY 
Dali uio Hotel Chinawure, (lookingwure, A1 11 in inn in mire, etc 
shipped direct from factory to consumer. Write u s 
for particulars. E. SWASEY S CO.. Portland, Main e 
32-Ft. Metal Weatherstrip can apply. 
Postpaid, a iloll ill* bill. 1’. A. IUl'1’1,KVK, Sllrer Creek, .VS 
The Grimm Maple Sugar 
Making Utensils 
Grimm J’tenMls have been in successful operation for 
over thirty years—always making: that good (Trade of 
syrup that hrinprs the highest market price. If you n« j ed 
utensils, write us the number of trees you tap and we 
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G. H. GRIMM ESTATE - Rutland. Vt. 
• - .— . - 
■ 
! EDMONDS’ POULTRY 
ACCOUNT BOOK 
■ 
■ 
■ 
The best we know. Complete in 
{ one book. Easily kept. Net re- 
: suits shown at any time. Good 
: for one year. 
■ 
j Price $1.00 To Canada $1.25 
■ 
■ 
For Sale by 
I The Rural New-Yorker 
: 333 W. 30th Street New York City 
