ASCENT OF MOUNT ETNA. 
39 
quality of the wine very far surpasses that of the Marsala 
region in richness and delicacy. Wealthy families often come 
up to spend the summer here, in order to enjoy the pure air 
and the delicious grapes and wines of the neighborhood. 
The view from San Nicolosi over the valley of Catania is 
one of the finest in Sicily. Yineyards, white shining villas, 
groves of olive and almond trees, meadows, and ruins of half 
buried villages are spread out below in all the variegated 
hues of a living panorama, bounded by the glistening sea and 
the far-off hills of Syracuse. From the rustic observatory of 
our host we had a sunset view of this magnificent region 
that made an impression never to be effaced. Senor Gem- 
mellaro was delighted at the effect of his skill in rustic archi¬ 
tecture, and 1 have no doubt attributed the admirable man¬ 
ner in which the sun went down to the remarkable construc¬ 
tion of his observatory. 
We walked back with him, after feasting ourselves on figs, 
grapes, wine, and scenery, to the village, where he took us 
into his old palazzo and showed us all the curiosities of the 
establishment. There w T ere dogs innumerable in the yard, 
white rabbits and gray rabbits, squirrels, and cats, and rats, 
pea-fowl, and guinea-fowl, and all manner of fowl; strange- 
looking things creeping on the ground and up the grape-vines; 
old guns, and horns, and shot-pouches hanging under the 
piazza; old vases to catch the rain, and antique columns 
starting up out of the ground in all directions. It was a 
strange, bachelor-like old place, with no sign of life about it 
save that of the strange animals that kept company with 
their old master. Yet he seemed to be happy, and to take a 
quiet pleasure in feeding his pets; perhaps as much as most 
people do in feeding their wives. 
The cabinet of Senor Gemmellaro contains a rich and won¬ 
derful collection of volcanic specimens; lava in all possible 
forms ; some in the shape of snakes, lizards, and pigs ; others 
not unlike old castles, statuary, columns, and antique vases; 
also coins of rare value, relics of Sicilian history, old papers 
and oid books, and a thousand curious things impossible to 
describe. 
