110 
A CRUSADE IN THE EAST. 
concurred in that opinion, and was enabled from observation 
on various occasions to confirm it by the most ample test¬ 
imony. 
One Salvo, the son of a ship-chandler, took possession of 
me, and led me off victoriously to a small hotel, kept near 
the wharf by his father, Salvo the elder. There I was fed on 
ham and eggs, in the most sumptuous manner by the whole 
Salvo family, who were not only proud, hut extremely happy 
in* being enabled to claim acquaintance with so distinguished 
a guest. Salvo Junior had spent three years in America, 
where he was certain he had seen me hundreds of times ; 
and Salvo Senior was the father of Salvo Junior, and had fur¬ 
nished American ships with articles of chandlery for thirty 
years past, and, consequently, on both grounds had a perfect 
right to know me; and Mrs. Salvo, although she spoke no¬ 
thing but Greek and ItaJian, and had never seen me either 
in America or elsewhere, up to the date of my arrival at the 
Salvo Hotel, yet being the wife of Salvo Senior, and the mother 
of Salvo Junior, and, moreover, a very fat and good-natured 
old lady, I was forced to acknowledge that I had seen either 
herself, or somebody a good deal like her, before. It was 
really a luxury to receive so much kindness in a strange land, 
accompanied as it was by ham and eggs and several cups of 
excellent black tea; and I was altogether too happy to ana¬ 
lyze the motives. That it was all genuine kindness, I found 
to my great satisfaction before leaving Smyrna, for the hill 
was unusually moderate, and it required some persuasion to 
induce that worthy family to accept any thing for service, 
which is rather a rare occurrence at the best establishment 
in Europe or Asia Minor. 
Salvo Junior gave himself up wholly to my pleasure during 
my sojourn in Smyrna. We rambled about the bazaars, ex¬ 
plored the ruins of the old Genoese fort, rode out to all the 
neighboring villages, and smoked the chibouck and sipped 
caffe in every respectable establishment throughout the city. 
A few days may be spent very pleasantly in Smyrna. The 
costumes of the inhabitants are remarkable for richness and 
variety ; and the bazaars and different places of public re- 
