160 
A CRUSADE IN THE EAST. 
judgment to adopt only what is useful or convenient. The 
turban, which has been cast aside for the fez, had the double 
advantage of protecting the head and eyes from the glare of 
the sun, as also of forming a becoming termination to the 
figure; hut nothing can he more ridiculous than the skimpy 
red night-cap, called a fez, which now supplies its place. 
"What can he expected of a people who wear such things on 
their heads ? How can they entertain any but mongrel no¬ 
tions, when their brains are subjected to the daily process of 
broiling ? If they were semi-barbarous under the turban, 
they are more than semi-imbecile under the fez. It must be 
admitted, however that the present display of military cos¬ 
tume and discipline was very much superior to what one or¬ 
dinarily sees about the military stations of Stamboul. The 
guards and officers seem to be carefully chosen, and in gen¬ 
eral appearance are not inferior to those of more civilized 
nations. 
Passing under the grated bridge which extends over the 
avenue connecting the gardens of the Harem with the palace, 
we entered a large open square in front of the mosque. The 
entire space was encircled by lines of soldiers, standing in 
readiness to receive the royal pageant. To the left, at a re¬ 
spectable distance, stood some few hundred native spectators, 
but owing to our dress, and perhaps a certain respect inspired 
for us by the daring manner in which our dragoman, Carlo, 
made room for us, we were permitted to stand behind a line 
of soldiers directly in front of the mosque. It wanted a 
quarter of twelve : the Sultan was to appear precisely at 
noon. During the interval four or five servants were busily 
engaged in sweeping down the steps upon which his High¬ 
ness was to ascend, and spreading thereupon rich cloths to 
be pressed by his royal feet. These were also carefully swept 
down two or three times in succession, so that not a speck 
should be left. By the time all this was accomplished there 
was a general stir, a low murmur of awe and expectation. 
Nobody appeared to say any thing, or do any thing, or see 
any thing, but it was perfectly apparent that the great Abd- 
ul-Mejid was coming. There was an instinctive holding of 
