BAALBEK. 
207 
which we had been ascending for nearly two days, stretched 
down till it appeared to mingle with the mists of the ocean 
at the shores of Tripoli; on the other the magnificent plain 
of Bukaa, bounded in the distance by the mountains of Anti- 
Lebanon, at the base of which, sparkling in the rays of the 
setting sun, were distinctly visible the minaret of the mosque 
and the ruins of Baalbek ; while far down in the valley of 
Bukaa, to the right as we faced the plain, gleamed the bright 
waters of the Litany, and across the deep gorges at our feet 
were cast the shadows of the lofty peaks of Lebanon—a vast 
and impressive scene, within a single sweep of the eye, sterile, 
waste, and desolate, but sublime in its weird simplicity. It 
brought to mind, with the vividness of reality, those grand 
pictures of primeval scenery drawn in the sacred writings; 
and the lapse of ages seemed now but the lapse of years, 
passed in a dream. It was like returning after an absence to 
some long known haunt of youth ; for the words of the sacred 
book, the first impressed upon the memory, were here a sub¬ 
lime reality. 
As we descended toward the plain of Bukaa, driving our 
horses before us, my self-willed old charger, Saladin, took a 
notion not to be driven down, so he walked up on all possible 
occasions. In vain I hurled missiles at his head; in vain I 
begged him not to be foolish ; in vain I tried to make him 
understand that he was only doubling the distance, as he 
would eventually be compelled to turn back again ; it was 
all to no purpose. Up again to the top of Mount Lebanon 
he would go, after the most persevering resistance, half way 
down ; and at last he ran away full speed over rocks that 
seemed quite inaccessible. I had long suspected Saladin of 
a sentimental turn of mind, and was now convinced that he 
only wanted to enjoy another view of the sunset; but it was 
too late, the sun had disappeared and it was fast getting dark. 
So I darted after him, and the chase became quite exciting. 
Never skipped a goat with more agility than that slab-sided 
old horse. It was fully half an hour before I could catch 
him, and it was then so dark that I found myself lost. 
Neither muleteers nor guides were to be seen. I shouted till 
