30 
WANDERINGS IN 
FIRST 
JOURNEY 
Rocks. 
River 
Apoura- 
poura. 
How the heart rejoices in viewing this beautiful 
landscape! when the sky is serene, the air cool, and 
the sun just sunk behind the mountain’s top. 
The hayawa tree perfumes the woods around; pairs 
of scarlet aras are continually crossing the river. 
The maam sends forth its plaintive note, the wren 
chants its evening song. The caprimulgus wheels 
in busy flight around the canoe, while u Whip-poor- 
Will” sits on the broken stump near the water’s 
edge, complaining as the shades of night set in. 
A little before you pass the last of these rapids, 
two immense rocks appear, nearly on the summit of 
one of the many hills which form this far-extending 
range, where it begins to fall off gradually to the 
south. 
They look like two ancient stately towers of some 
Gothic potentate, rearing their heads above the sur¬ 
rounding trees. What with their situation, and their 
shape together, they strike the beholder with an idea 
of antiquated grandeur, which he will never forget. 
He may travel far and near and see nothing like 
them. On looking at them through a glass, the 
summit of the southern one appeared crowned with 
bushes. The one to the north was quite bare. The 
Indians have it from their ancestors, that they are 
the abode of an evil genius, and they pass in the 
river below, with a reverential awe. 
In about seven hours from these stupendous sons 
of the hill, you leave the Essequibo, and enter the 
river Apoura-poura, which falls into it from the 
south. The Apoura-poura is nearly one-third the size 
of the Demerara at Stabroek. For two days you see 
