12 
THE VALLEY OF OUJON. 
little establishment something the appearance of power; but I 
am told the wild inhabitants of the mountains set the whole array, 
civil and military, at nought. The time occupied in descending 
the northern-side of the pass, was short in comparison with that 
consumed in reaching the rhaddary, or place of toll, from the 
southern base ; but we found the steep and narrow road we were 
then literally clambering down, particularly acute and zig-zag, 
and perilously interrupted by huge loose fragments of rock en¬ 
cumbering the path. This is considered the most dangerous 
side of the pass, both on account of its hazardous natural con¬ 
struction, and the frequent sallies of its brigands j but neither on 
one side nor on the other did we meet the slightest molest¬ 
ation, or even see the shadow of an hostile arm. We were, 
however, on the alert; having our mehmandar, and another 
horseman, in advance about two or three hundred yards, all the 
way. After descending, and travelling a couple of farsangs along 
another banditti-like glen, we reached a cheerful little plain, 
where the nervous in our troop might begin to breathe freely ; 
and following a gentle slope, opened into a fine and widely-ex¬ 
tended vale, which soon brought us in front of a village and its 
caravansary, both nearly in ruins, but bearing the long-celebrated 
name of Oujon. The country, once the magnificent royal chase 
of the greatest monarchs of Persia, and studded with their pa¬ 
vilions, was now a neglected, though luxuriant plain, and spotted 
over with the black tents of the Nomade peaceable tribes. 
Having, before our approach, despatched a horseman to their 
chief, we were met by his son, who, welcoming us with the usual 
courtesies of his people, conducted our whole party to good 
quarters, where myself and friend were lodged in an excellent 
marquee, and then served with every attention their simple means 
