VALLEY OF KALA-GUL-AUB. 
3 
I had first seen it from the ruins of Persepolis, rearing its scarred 
head pre-eminent in rugged wildness, amongst the varied and 
less savage aspects of the different hills which form a natural 
bulwark behind those still beautiful remains. The passes of the 
mountains, which, in the hands of the brave Ariobarzanes and 
his Uxians, proved such impregnable holds against the Mace¬ 
donian legions, are yet formidable; but their possessors are 
changed. Bands of fierce barbarians descend from their interior 
fastnesses, and, when opportunity occurs, seldom fail to lay 
a heavy tribute on the lightly-defended passenger *, often, indeed, 
to the loss of life as well as property. A vernal little valley 
extending northward, presents itself at the base of the Kala-Gul- 
Aub. It is traversed by two beautiful streams whose waters, if 
not claiming the actual fragrance of the rose, are quite as 
refreshing from their sweetness and exhilarating coolness. It 
is only in a land like this, of intemperate changes of season, 
that we can appreciate the Persian’s idea of paradise, “ Warmth 
without heat, and coolness without cold!” In riding up the 
little valley, we crossed these charming streams, and soon 
arrived at Mayan; a considerable village, situated in a circus of 
rocky steeps, with the delightful addition of being abundantly 
shaded with trees. Here we took up our quarters in a cara¬ 
vansary, and first became sensible to a comfortable change in 
the climate, the thermometer standing at 80° even in mid-day. 
This place is estimated at seven farsangs from Fatabad. Chardin 
calls it a large city, and honours it with the reputation of having- 
been the residence of Job. If so, its present shrunk state 
bears no small resemblance to the dilapidated substance of its 
ancient inhabitant; but whether, like him, it will ever rise from 
decay, is a question only future times can answer. The grateful 
b 2 
