DOUR. 
65 
solate state of dilapidation, are all the quarters reserved for tra¬ 
vellers. So savage was the immediate scenery around, and so 
much had the place itself the appearance of entertaining the 
rudest inhabitants, that it seemed to me as if just vacated by 
some of the bandit hordes themselves, who had not only sacked 
the spot, but the neighbourhood also; so difficult did we find it 
to procure provisions for ourselves, or forage for our cattle. 
Owing to some oppressive measures of the present governor of 
the district, most of the natives had deserted the village ; and the 
Ketkhoda in particular, not only abandoned his trust and the 
place, but, with a few desperate followers, joined himself to a band 
of Bactiari. Having thus outlawed himself, he accompanies his new 
friends in their descents, and conducts them by ways best known to 
himself, to the plunder of the poor peasantry over whom he once 
presided; whenever the gathering of their fruit, or the reaping of 
their harvest, holds forth adequate temptation to his rapacity and 
violence. In consequence of these disasters, government has 
stationed a small body of well-armed men to be always on the 
spot, to protect the little remains of Dour husbandry; and they 
so far exonerated the chivalrous pretensions of my guard, as to 
assure me they did not doubt that a detachment from the rebel 
Ketkhoda had been on the prowl, and that it was some advanced 
scouts from him, which my people had made take to their heels. 
September 4th.—We quitted the caravansaries of Dour at 
two o’clock this morning, marching under the same starry sky 
as before, in a direction north 30° west along the plain; which, 
notwithstanding its name, like most other extensive tracts of 
similar nomination in this land of mountains, was full of hillocky 
irregularities. On our left rose a chain of undulating minor 
hills, intervening between us and our former magnificent view 
VOL. II. 
K 
