ECBATANA. 
103 
of Ecbatana. In one or two spots I observed square platforms, 
composed of large stones ; the faces of many of which were chi¬ 
selled all over into the finest arabesque fretwork, whilst others 
had, in addition, long inscriptions in the Arabic character. They 
had evidently been tombstones of the inhabitants, during the 
caliph rule in Persia. But when we compare relics of the seventh 
century, with the deep antiquity of the heaped ruins on which 
they lie, these monumental remains seem but the register of 
yesterday. For what purpose, or when they were disturbed 
from their original destination, and arranged in their present 
order, are subjects of no easy conjecture. The only thing that 
appears for some years to have kept the place in any degree of 
notice with the modern Persians, is the manufacture of a superior 
sort of leather; but the very article of traffic proclaims the low 
order of population to which it has been abandoned; and as I 
passed through the wretched, hovelled streets, and saw the once 
lofty city of Astyages, shrunk like a shrivelled gourd, the con¬ 
templation of such a spectacle called forth more saddening re¬ 
flections than any that had been awakened in me on any former 
ground of departed greatness. In some I had seen mouldering 
pomp, or sublime desolation ; in this, every object spoke of 
neglect, and hopeless poverty. Not majesty in stately ruin, 
pining to final dissolution on the spot where it was first blasted ; 
but beggary, seated on the place which kings had occupied, 
squalid in rags, and stupid with misery. It was impossible to 
look on it and not exclaim, “ Oh ! Ecbatana, seat of princes ! 
How is the mighty fallen, and the weapons of war perished!” 
Some attempts are indeed making, to dislodge the fiend of waste 
and wretchedness from this once noble city. Within these twelve 
months it has been created a royal government, and committed 
