196 
THE COURDS OF KERMANSHAH. 
no greater distance from their kislilock, or walled cluster of 
cottages, than a few hundred yards. 
Their dress differs more in hue than in shape, from that of 
the ordinary Persian ; as we generally find that the common 
people in every country, paying more regard to climate and 
convenience than to any change of mode, wear much the same 
sort of apparel through every age. Instead of the black skin 
cap of the Persian, the Gourd has one of a whitish felt, pointed 
at the top, but varying in height. It has flaps falling over the 
ears, to shelter them from the mountain-cold. In winter, or 
in those keen higher regions, an additional garment is worn, 
called a kadack ; its form is that of a short jacket, and its fabric 
and colour the same with the cap. They seldom move without 
a heavy pear-headed stick in their hands, and frequently are 
armed besides with a trusty well-handled sword. Whether they 
live in villages or towns, their hearts yearn after all that belongs 
to the open field ; the boldest spirits, for the foray and the 
spoil; and those who do not object the prey without the 
chase, gladly embrace whatever plunder fortune may throw 
into their hands. Before I made my final preparations for de¬ 
parting, the ketkhoda of Tackt-i-Bostan warned me to keep my 
people on the especial look-out the night previous to my setting 
off; for, with the greatest sang froid, he added, “ there could 
be no doubt some attempt would be made to carry off part of 
the baggage, mules, or horses.” That this friendly caution was 
necessary, shewed the style of difference between the govern¬ 
ments of Azerbijan and Kermanshah, there being marauding 
dispositions in the neighbourhood of both. But I had not 
waited for this friendly hint from the magistrate of the place j 
having from the first been aware of the morals of his subjects, 
