210 
KHAUN OF POOL-I-ZOHAUB. 
the Persians, male and female, in this expedition, intended most 
to mortify the flesh ; for while the pilgrims of other nations 
were at least decently clad, the sackcloth of these was rags, and 
for ashes , they had an ample complement of every other species 
of dirt. Having gone carelessly on, under such loathsome gar¬ 
ments during the march, when they halted for refreshment, 
many of the men, without regard to those about them, stripped 
themselves to the skin, and sat crouching and naked like a circle 
of brahmins. The motive for this state of nature, was to have 
free chace for the infinity of vermin, which covers their un¬ 
changed garments like dust on the ground; and as they never 
destroy what they discover, but throw them down, the flooring 
of any place of their rest seldom fails swarming like the “ quar¬ 
ters of Egypt.” Fleas, too, are met with in all the caravansaries, 
skipping about in myriads ; and as whirlwinds are frequent at 
the close of the day, these creatures literally come in clouds, 
mingled with chaff and dust; and entering the open recesses, 
fill every nook and dwelling-hole destined to shelter the passing 
guest. Water, frequent changes and inspection of apparel, and 
constant watchfulness, must be the unremitted guards of the 
European traveller; else these disgusting annoyances would 
soon be found the most formidable evil of an Asiatic journey. 
There is an establishment at Pool-i-Zohaub, planted by the 
pasha of Bagdad, to receive the tax levied on pilgrims and cara¬ 
vans. It is exacted at the rate of a Persian panabad (equivalent to 
sixpence) for each beast of burthen ; and an abbassy (five pence) 
per head, for each individual. I enquired how many persons 
had passed this entrance into the pashalick this year, and was 
informed ten thousand. This statement is correct, since it came 
from those in the immediate receipt of the custom. The re- 
