CHANGE OF CLIMATE. 
211 
venue his highness receives from these sources is considerable. 
But the troops by Pool-i-Zohaub, not being the only stream of 
devotees which seek the holy shrines, it is his interest to yield 
them every reasonable facility in crossing his dominions; that he 
may induce some of the many thousands who pour towards the 
sacred territories by the ways of Courdistan, to pass through the 
pashalick of Bagdad. Indeed, his treasury is greatly augmented, 
and his capital enriched, by the vast sums of money expended 
annually by these wandering bands under the walls of his city. 
I now not only found myself in another country, but so much 
in another climate, that it appeared as if the atmosphere of 
Persia were a contraband, and must not pass the frontier. My 
last few days on the other side of the dividing crest of Zagros, 
were sufficiently hot to destroy my thermometers, by so curling 
their ivory scales as to cause the glass tubes to break ; a piece of 
experience I gained too late to have either of them changed to 
metal scales, on which the heat could not have had any such 
power. But, extreme as 1 then thought the burning atmosphere, 
it was nothing to the fierceness of the blaze which met me on 
the pashalick side of the frontier ; and not being able to ascer¬ 
tain its degree, I the more regretted the misfortune of my 
thermometers. 
October 4th. — This morning we re-commenced our route at 
five o’clock; crossing an open country, in a line north 45° west, 
and intersected by numberless little streams ; six or eight of 
which, out of the many we rode through to the great pleasure 
of our mules and horses, find their way to the Zohaub. After 
a march of about an hour and a half, we entered upon a chain 
of hills, amongst which our road led in the most circuitous and 
intricate mazes I had ever trod; heights and depths, ravines, 
e e 2 
