242 
ARRIVES AT BAGDAD. 
suspect that some optical illusion, from refraction, was assisting 
the apparent elevation of the stream ; but I had not conceived 
the extent of the deception, for as the dawn advanced, the phan¬ 
tom river totally sunk from my sight. 
With the progress of the day, real objects presented them¬ 
selves ; but none so agreeable as the horizon, turreted with the 
long grey line of substantial walls which embattle the great city 
of Bagdad, the bourn for which my way-worn sick addressed 
their prayers. On approaching it from the north-east, the stretch 
of building appears immense, covering a vast expanse of plain, 
and enriched towards the northern extremity, with clustering 
plantations of date-trees. I passed through the gates soon after 
seven o’clock ; having galloped forward with my Turkish con¬ 
ductor and his Arabs, while my encumbered train followed at its 
more convenient leisure. 
A stranger arriving from Irak Ajem, into this renowned 
capital of Irak Arabi, cannot fail being instantly struck with the 
marked difference between the people before him, and those he 
left north of the mountains. There, the vesture was simple and 
close, though long, with a plain-hilted knife stuck in the girdle, 
and the head of the wearer covered with a dark cap of sheep¬ 
skin. Here, the outer garment is ample and flowing, the turban 
high and superbly folded, and the costly shawl round the waist 
additionally ornamented with a richly embossed dagger. With 
personages in every variety of this gorgeous costume, I saw the 
streets of Bagdad filled on my entrance. Monstrous turbans of 
all hues, pelisses, and vests, of silk, satins, and cloths, in red, 
blue, green, yellow, of every shade and fabric, clothed the mot¬ 
ley groupes who appeared every where; some slowly moving 
along, the streets, others seated cross-legged on the ground, or 
