298 
TURKISH CAMP. 
lating mounds, streets ; this vast solitude, filled with the busy 
subjects of the proud daughter of the East! Now, “ wasted with 
misery ,” her habitations are not to be found; and, for herself, 
“ the worm is spread over her /” 
Our road bent, from the immediate bank of the river, to the 
south-east; and, after crossing the bed of a very wide canal, 
almost close to the bank we were leaving, we entered on an 
open tract, on which I saw the extensive encampment of the 
Kiahya Bey. The town of Hillah lay a couple of miles beyond 
it; a long stretch of low-bulwarked wall, but enlivened by cu¬ 
polas and glittering minarets, and the tops of numerous planta¬ 
tions of date-trees, with other green boughs from the gardens, 
through whose pleasant avenues we soon approached the gates 
of the place. On passing them, I found a house prepared for 
me in the suburb of the city, on the east side of the river, and 
not far from the bridge. I could not have had a more desirable 
situation, for comparative coolness, and interest of prospect. 
Our ride this day had occupied nearly nine hours, and over 
a space of ground about the same as the day before, namely, 
twenty-eight miles. 
November lltli. — This morning I set forth at an early hour, 
to pay my ceremonial visit to the kiahya, in command of the 
pasha’s army; and to deliver the official order, that was to 
ensure me military protection during my sojourn in its vicinity. 
I had previously sent to apprise his excellency of my intention, 
and that I brought a letter from his prince. The observations I 
made on my approach to the camp, did not inspire me with 
very respectful ideas of its discipline ; and its general appear¬ 
ance, so far from being magnificent, (the common idea attached 
to every thing Asiatic,) was rather that of a disorderly poverty. 
