BANKS OF THE EUPHRATES. 
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reaching from the small defenceless gate, whence it is entered 
from Bagdad, down to the edge of the water j it is deemed the 
least considerable part of Hillah, being of far less dimensions in 
every way, than the more populous branch across the rotten 
timbers. There the inhabitants, Jews, Turks, and Arabs, are 
much thicker; the streets and bazars more numerous and abun¬ 
dant. From the great centre bazar, well filled with merchandise, 
branch off, in various crooked directions, minor ranges, amongst 
which are found the fish and flesh markets. In the former I 
saw several varieties ; and some of enormous size, resembling 
the barbel. The fish in question ran from four to five feet in 
length, and were covered with very large thick scales. The 
head took up full a third of their length. I am told they eat 
coarse and dry, but are, nevertheless, a favourite food with the 
inhabitants. They are caught in great quantities near the town, 
and also to a considerable distance above it. The flesh market 
was sparingly served with meat, the whole not appearing to be 
more than the dismembered carcases of two sheep, two goats, 
and the red rough fragments of a buffalo. This display was 
but ascefic provision for a population of seven thousand persons. 
The streets are narrow, like those of Bagdad ; a necessary evil 
in oriental climates, to elude the full power of the sun : but they 
were even more noisomely filthy ; a most unnecessary annoyance 
any where. In like manner, also, they were crowded, but not 
with so many persons in gay attire. Here were groups of dark, 
grim-looking, half naked Arabs, sitting idly on the sides of the 
streets, and so numerously, as scarcely to leave room for a single 
horse to pass; and even a cavalcade in line would not have 
alarmed them, so indifferent did they appear, when we were 
almost compelled, at some abrupt turn, almost to ride over 
