430 
CROSSES THE HAMREAN HILLS. 
wood of orange and date-trees, with the variegated lines of the 
Hamrean hills immediately in front of its dilapidated walls. 
The Ketkhoda is a Georgian, and therefore a countryman of the 
lord of the pashalick; but neither feeling respect for his superior, 
nor pride in their affinity, he treated his firman with the most 
decided contempt; and notwithstanding that the old Turkish 
mehmandar, whom his highness had set over my travelling 
accommodation, put himself into a solemn passion, neither 
quarters for ourselves, nor a grain of rice or corn for man or 
beast could we obtain, till a due number of piastres were placed 
in hostage. We had been nine hours and a half on our march, 
and I should suppose it to be about 34 miles from the last 
menzil. 
December 5th. —- Soon after quitting our inhospitable quarters 
this morning, we began to ascend the Hamrean hills, the great 
natural wall of the Chaldsean plains. For the first hour of our 
ascent, our passage was over a succession of rocky ledges, divided 
by long tracks of cultivated soil, or similar intervals of sand or 
gravel, all bearing marks of the force of waters which rush over 
them in the seasons of thaw. On gaining the highest point, an 
extensive view broke upon us, showing the serpentine windings 
of the Diala to the southward, and the distant level of the 
Chaldsean plain, alternately tracked with waste or date-groves, 
as far as the eye could reach. Northward lay the devious 
branches of the hills we were upon ; and beyond, the snow-clad 
mountains of Courdistan mingled with the clouds. We then 
gradually descended into lower ground, and in about an hour 
came to the small river Narine, along whose steep bank the road 
continues for a considerable way, when it takes a curve to the 
north-west; but in less than half an hour, we again met the 
