IN PERSIA. 
517 
and came to a small square sort of apartment, where we found a 
book in a niche of one of the walls, the characters of which we 
apprehend were Arabic. The paper of the book was very hard and 
unpliable. This romantic scene, which is difficult to describe, the 
Persians and Tartars believe to have been the residence of the 
prophet Elias when he fled from Ahab. Near it is the burying- 
place of some Mahomedan saints. From hence appear the 
summits of many mountains, raising their proud heads above 
the clouds. We returned the same way we came, to the head 
of the steps, and observed at the south end of the peak, a pillar 
of stone about sixty feet high, and five in diameter, at the foot 
of which the rock was black for some distance. This place is 
said to have formerly been a strong-hold of robbers; and cer¬ 
tainly, if there be a possibility of finding an impregnable castle, 
this might be rendered one. 
“ On the 5th, we travelled about forty wersts, the most part 
through a barren and sandy soil, leaving springs of dark naphtha 
to the westward; and encamped near Niezabad. The 6th, we 
proceeded on our journey, passing by six wells of white naphtha, 
at the foot of a hill to the eastward, covered with verdure to the 
north. The smell of the naphtha was very offensive. We 
travelled over several rocks of brown soft free-stone, and en¬ 
camped on the north side of Bakou, now remarkable for the 
best haven on the Caspian. All the country here is impregnated 
with salt and sulphur, and supplies the neighbouring provinces of 
Ghilan and Mazanderan, with rock-salt, brimstone, and naphtha.” 
Here, then, we see Russia sole master of almost the whole of 
the western shore of the Caspian, commanding the Kur river 
entirely, and a very great part of the Aras. In short, all that 
Persia now possesses on the northern bank of the latter river, 
