REGULATIONS OF POST-HORSES. 
617 
tinged the huge and pointed rocks with light, beaming a 
bright contrast to the deep gloom beneath. Ere evening 
closed, both peaks of the sacred mountain were clear; and when 
night came on, the whole gigantic form was perceptible against 
the blue yet glowing sky, sweeping darkly from its pale-pointed 
summit down to the vast plain to the north, called that of Ararat. 
It is impossible to describe the sublimity of its aspect, under 
both circumstances of storm and peace, nor the feelings that 
rose in my mind during these rapid changes. 
It was late before we passed through Hoig, or Khoig, a place 
noted for the insolence of its inhabitants. And soon after coming 
upon the traversing branches, or rather tributary streams of the 
Arpatchia, we had to cross so many in our path, as to render this 
part of our march peculiarly troublesome from the shadowy and 
therefore deceiving appearance of the road in the gloom of 
night. Our menzil was the post-house of Noorhasham, called 
eight farsangs from Nackshivan, our last halting-place. 
October 23d. — We were on horseback this morning by seven 
o’clock, the animals having been brought forward with alacrity. 
The allowance for their use, to the peasant owner obliged to 
furnish them in pursuance of the royal order, is two reals each 
horse ; which sum government deducts from the payment of his 
annual tax, and therefore, being always thus sure of remuneration 
for the service of his beasts, he is seldom scrupulous of bringing 
them readily forth on these occasions. But in great towns, 
where these royally provided horses are usually pressed from 
housekeepers and tradesmen, they are produced reluctantly, on 
account of there being three chances to one against the proba¬ 
bility of their proprietors being ever repaid at all. The two 
reals per beast ought to be put down by the chief magistrate of 
4 K 
VOL. II. 
