630 
THE BURSA OF TIRIDATES. 
own convenience and that of their beasts. The people too, were 
as rude as their taste ; neither kindliness nor self-interest opening 
their hands to afford us a morsel of refreshment. In one of 
their large stables, however, we at last took up our temporary 
quarters; and, after much abusive language between them and 
my escort, saw a few eggs and a little bad bread brought forth. 
But it was grateful to the weary ; and, after partaking it, I rolled 
myself in my cloak, and lying down with my head on my saddle, 
under the flap of which my pistols were disposed, passed the 
night with rather too many of Sancho’s bed-fellows ! 
October 27th. — At the dawn of the morning we were up 
with the lark, too happy to emerge from our murky repose, 
and breathe the wholesome air. Being all soon mounted, our 
present path, to still mqre antiquities, lay along the abrupt sides 
of the mountains j and following the windings of the river in a 
direction nearly north-east, in about an hour and a half, we 
reached the end of the long basaltic chasm through which it 
rolls. Its source commences there; and not far from it, on the 
southern side of the valley, a very lofty height presents itself, 
crowned with the remains of another fortress. The people call 
it the Bursa or Burs; and ascribing it also to Tiridates, say it 
was the stronghold in which he kept his treasures. Having 
ascended the slope of the valley on its northern side a few 
hundred yards, we saw the Kayargast, or seven churches, a pile 
of most extraordinary aspect, cloven into the very heart of the 
mountain, and raising its sacred fane amidst ruins and graves at 
its feet. Standing in deep solitude, and many parts unimpaired, 
the effect was indeed that of “ the church in the wilderness,” 
solemn and impressive. The Armenians, who may well look 
upon it as the type of themselves in a Mahomedan land, regard 
