534 REVISITS THE MONASTERY OF EITCH-MAI-ADZEN. 
seasons inhabiting the caves of St. Gregory, assisted in the good 
work of preparing similar abodes for more numerous visitants to 
the same blessed shrines. These remoter cells reminded me of 
the little lonely hermitage amongst the rocks of the Coquet, in 
Northumberland, where the solitary chisel of a single monk 
sounded down that beautiful valley for a space of forty years; 
during which time, as the tradition goes, he excavated the first 
cave for his own abode, the second for a chapel, and the interior 
for a place of penance. 
On leaving the Kayargast, or Seven Churches, we went direct 
off, over the mountains; and reached Erivan in six hours. 
October 28th. — I halted to-day with the Sardar, in order to 
receive the necessary papers; and also to be furnished with 
letters to the pasha of Kars, and the serraskier of Arzeroom. 
But my veteran host would fain have detained me a little lon¬ 
ger, under dread of the plague, he having heard it was then 
raging in the former city with such fury as to render it prudent 
for himself to stop all communication towards him from the other 
side of the frontiers. I was grateful for his anxiety; but being 
obliged to press on, received my credentials, and prepared for 
departure on the morrow. 
October 29th. — I did not quit Erivan till half-past one o’clock 
in the day, and after a delightful ride over the noble plain of 
Ararat, reached Eitch-mai-adzen, or, as it is sometimes called, 
Utchkilissia, the Three Churches ; a distance of three farsangs, 
or thirteen measured miles. Epheme, the venerable patriarch, 
received me with every kindness I had anticipated; a sort of 
parental welcome, no doubt belonging to the sacred character 
when so secluded from the world at large; which, from that cir¬ 
cumstance, inclines him to consider all who approach him, with 
