642 
PASSES THE PERSIAN FRONTIER. 
and Georgians repair to it for immense loads; and indeed we 
met several hundred bullocks, laden with masses of the salt, like 
large slabs of alabaster. The excavations within the mountain 
that produce it, are in spacious galleries and caverns ; present¬ 
ing a most extraordinary and beautiful effect, from the dazzling 
reflection of the surface when any light strikes into them. This 
mine has been worked from the earliest times, and yet yields 
exhaustless stores. Having next re-crossed the Aras, we re¬ 
joined my baggage, and continued along its northern shore till 
at two o’clock we passed Hadjy-baramloo; a village on the 
eastern bank of the Arpatchia, and situated about a mile and a 
half above the point of its junction with the Aras. This spot 
forms the double gorge of the great valleys of each river; and 
consequently presents many romantic scenes of hill and dale. 
In one of the most picturesque of these, we find the village, 
quite embosomed in a thicket of almond and walnut trees, and 
standing on the verge of the bright waters of the Arpatchia, dash¬ 
ing along their deep rocky bed. Delightedly we spread our 
nummuds near so pleasant a lullaby; and the most querulous 
of us all, next morning declared he never had sweeter rest. 
November 1st. — This village was the last on the Persian side 
of the frontier. Immediately beyond it, towards the Turkish 
line, extended a neutral tract j a space indeed totally abandoned 
to the desert; and in character with such appearance, it was often 
infested by the wildest and fiercest of all animals, bands of des¬ 
perate men, the outlawed refuse of both countries. Hence we 
were to march from Hadjy-baramloo under a pretty strong escort, 
till we had passed the dangerous limits. When on horseback, our 
array presented a rather formidable appearance; for besides my 
own party with the Janissary at its head, a priest and his serv- 
