NEUTRAL LAND. 
643 
ing man, with two or three travelling merchant-pilgrims, had 
put themselves under my protection at Eitch-mai-adzen, till I 
should house them in safety at Arzeroom and Tokat. They 
were returning to those cities, after a holy visit to the shrines of 
the monastery of The Presence. The weather continued de¬ 
lightful ; the mornings clear and bracing, with a powerful sun 
at noon, and an evening of glowing beauty. We started at 
half-past eight o’clock in the morning ; and, after descending 
the rugged bank of the Arpatchia, crossed it, and bade farewell 
to Persia. The river, at this point, is rapid and pretty deep, 
but the width only twenty yards. 
The road proceeded up a gradual and winding course, in a 
general direction N. 80° W. As we rose above the vale, our 
eye commanded very extensive views of the meandering courses 
of both rivers ; and a magnificent sight of the sacred mountain, 
rearing its double head over the immense chains, whose sum¬ 
mits appeared to support its base. After marching thus for 
about an hour, we bent far more to the north, and up an ex¬ 
ceedingly steep and jagged road, till at half-past ten o’clock we 
reached the top of this branch of the Alleguz mountains. Sweep¬ 
ing hence to the west, its bold acclivities inclose the left shore 
of the Aras, till mingling their swelling promontories with those 
of Ararat, at the point where both mountains blend in each 
other, the river springs. We rested at the summit of this part 
of the chain for a short time ; our descent then began, and we 
soon lost sight of the plain of Erivan, the silver windings of its 
stream, and the venerable mountain of the ark. 
On gaining a more level country, the road became gently 
undulating over fine verdure; while the rocky chasm through 
which the Arpatchia flowed, stretched a considerable way on our 
4 n 2 
