VILLAGE OF NAKSHIVAN. 
645 
height of the quarrel between these people and my vociferous 
train, I was rather surprised that the mighty threats of our 
Ottoman guardsman did not put on a more ostensible shape 
than the smacking of his whip, when his military brethren were 
so near ; but I soon found they backed the villagers ; and that 
his courage was of too “ lily-livered a hue,” to hazard any real 
contest. 
November 2nd. — When the war of words was ended, and 
the needful for farther march purchased at a good round sum, 
we sallied forth again this morning by seven o’clock, with half 
a dozen musqueteers for escort; but did not quite clear the 
ground before we heard the storm again amongst the natives, 
quarrelling about sharing the money. Of all disagreeable places 
I had ever been in, and not a few I have seen in the East, this 
was the most odious for dirt, insolence, and wrangling. And 
after we had left it, the temper of the scene seemed to extend 
to the very climate. The air had become bitter cold during the 
night; and when we faced its sky in the morning, we found it 
dark and lowering, with a most chilling wind. Our route lay north 
half west and north, in a sinuous direction up the mountains; 
and in less than an hour the wintry visage of the clouds burst 
upon us in the shape of a heavy fall of cutting sleet, which the 
wind blew in our faces during an arduous ascent of many miles. 
During this half-blinded kind of travelling, after an hour’s farther 
ride we passed a village, (the name I have forgotten,) standing 
on the brink of a deep chasm, washed at its base by a rapid 
stream called the Bazar Joh, and one of the tributaries to the 
Arpatchia. Owing to the thickness of the atmosphere, which 
continued thus sleety great part of the day, as well as the 
saturated state of the ground, which in places became heavy and 
