THE ARPATCHIA. 
649 
vast citadel-rock, winds along south-east, till it reaches Hadjy- 
baramloo; and soon after pours itself into the Araxes. At 
about four agatches (farsangs) to the north-east of Kars, lies 
a small lake, nearly three miles in length : it is celebrated for 
producing most delicious fish, and possesses as many names as 
the finny tribes within its bosom. Some call it Bala Katsio, or 
Igur-guely, or Chinglu. It was time to consider myself the guest 
of my Janissary Ahmed Aga, now that we had fairly entered the 
Turkish frontier ; and, in consequence, he began to furnish my 
board, whether from lake or field ; I was therefore both hungry 
and curious to know what the larder of the choppar-khanah, or 
post-house of Kars, would produce. In about two hours after our . 
arrival, the feast was announced. The first appearance was the 
large towel-like bread of Persia ; then a low stool was set on the 
floor, and a capacious pewtered circular tray placed on it, well 
garnished with small dishes; a large one being in the middle, 
filled with a sort of pillau made of wheat instead of rice, and plen- 
teously intermixed with morsels of mutton ; on the whole, rather 
savoury food. Next to it stood a pile of beef kabobs, shook up 
with slices of raw onion. These smoking restoratives appeared 
to be most agreeably snuffed in their advance by the different 
individuals of my party, who all squatted joyously round the 
tray, levelling its heaps presently with their fingers and spoons, 
with Ahmed Aga as nimble at the fare as the best of them. I 
sat alone by the fire, not less relishing the pillau; and, having 
the “ misfortune to dislike onions,” did not invade their enter¬ 
tainment farther. 
November 3d. — Being provided with every requisite order, 
and authority, for proceeding to Arzeroom, this morning we had 
the comfort of leaving our quarters without hazard of a pitched 
4 o 
VOL. II. 
