HUTS OF THE NATIVES. 
651 
of the habitations are dug into it,) that little more than their 
dingy roofs are seen above the surface. The door is a mere 
hole, through which the occupier must stoop, if not crawl, to 
make his escape. Within, it appears a large gloomy den, lit 
from the roof by two or three other holes, and the inhabit¬ 
ants are in harmony with the place; men, women, and cattle 
all pigging together; or, if any distinction is to be made, we 
find the beasts a few feet below their masters and mistresses, 
who have raised themselves a sort of shelf above their four-footed 
servants, with a fire-place in the corner, and a few dirty carpets 
on each side; and there they dwell, in plain fact, as happily as 
any of their distant Turkish lords in their harems. It was in 
villages formed of such houses, and most likely in this very 
plain of Armenia, that Xenophon and his harassed Greeks first 
sought, and then fought for shelter. At two o’clock, we passed, 
on our right, the village of Bagley Hammot; and at three, we 
again crossed the Arpatchia, (or Kars,) leaving it winding to the 
north-east; its source, I am told, is about eight hours’ distance 
from hence. By four o’clock we reached our quarters, at a 
village called Jow-waluke, one of the ground excavations of 
course. The distance from Kars is reckoned five agatches; I 
think it does not fall short of twenty miles. 
November 4th. — We did not quit our rabbit-hole this morn¬ 
ing until past eight o’clock, our conductor having to collect a 
guard against the anticipated dangers of to-day’s march ; almost 
the whole of the way hence to Arzeroom lying amongst the 
noted haunts of the worst species of Courdish depredators. After 
a little exhaustion of patience on my part, our Janissary made 
his appearance at the head of his chosen escort, consisting of a 
dozen musketeers from a neighbouring village, in garments as 
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