ARZEROOM. 
667 
Ararat high above the gigantic masses of every other range. 
From this point of our view, its towering hoary head bore 
S. 65° E. ; and thence, I believe, I for ever bade farewell to the 
great primaeval home of mankind, the hallowed “ mountain of 
the Lord.” 
The heights before us were rough and rugged, appearing yet 
to be subdued by the labour and sweat of man ; while the pass we 
now slowly wound up, being long, and partially steep, we occu¬ 
pied nearly three hours in compassing it. From the brow of its 
descent on the opposite side, we had a full sight of Arzeroom, 
lying in the hollow of a vale beneath, and completely surrounded 
by mountains. It was not more than three miles from us when 
we saw it. The city appeared large; and its lofty houses of 
stone gave it an air of magnificence, which totally vanished on 
more intimate acquaintance. However, the near as well as 
distant view of its embattled citadel, porcelained and glittering 
mosques, and cemeteries filled with monuments, struck me, as 
forming very decided contrasts to the more sombre features of 
similar structures in a Persian modern city. At half-past eleven 
o’clock we entered the suburbs ; and soon after passing along 
part of an extensive bazar, rode through the opened double 
gates, which were strongly coated with iron, into the town. A 
few minutes more brought us to the post-house, a most mi¬ 
serable place in point of dirt and dilapidation ; and so deserted, 
that scarce an individual appeared in its courts, and not a horse 
in its spacious stables. But all had been bustle, both with men 
and animals, in our way to these lonely quarters ; which contra¬ 
dictory circumstances were soon explained by a little hint that 
Sedak gave me. In short, my friend the Sardar’s Courds had 
again been trying their prowess on Turkish ground ; and having 
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