ARZEROOM. 
669 
the latter, I learnt that the population of the city amounts to 
about 6000 Christians, and 50,000 Mahomedans. It contains 
forty-five mosques, and two churches. Two of the most ancient 
of the mosques are beautifully ornamented with bricks and co¬ 
loured tiles ; which lofty domes, together with the glittering mi¬ 
narets of others, rising above the fortified walls of the governor’s 
palace, give a delusive splendour to the appearance of the city 
when seen from a little distance. Besides these interior embat- 
tlements, the whole city is outwardly defended by high double 
walls, well built, and additionally strengthened with lofty 
towers. The outer wall is supported by a deep ditch; but all 
are now in a neglected, and therefore ruinous state. The post- 
house being raised on the exterior rampart, I had a good oppor¬ 
tunity of overlooking a considerable part of the suburbs; which 
appear to extend quite round the walls, while the scenes that 
passed beneath presented no small variety for an Asiatic drama. 
November 8th. — Wishing, however, to draw a little nearer 
the actors, and also to see the town within the walls, I sent to 
his Turkish Excellency, to request permission to walk into the 
heart of the city ; but here a species of jealousy shewed itself, I 
had never seen in Persia ; and the answer my messenger received 
was — “ If your master wishes to purchase any thing in the 
suburb market, there can be no objection to his going there ; but 
as for his seeing any other parts of the town than where he is, it 
can be no gratification to him, since one house is like another, 
and so are all the streets.” 
This decisive reply determined me to make no more attempts 
to extend the objects of my vision beyond my window; but did 
not prevent that bird’s-eye view of the city, presenting me many 
subjects for sketches of the natives. The description of some 
