694 
KOYLA HISSAR, 
to tlie Frangy they conducted, the more determinately obtuse 
seemed to be his faculties. In short, the sun rose and set for 
two days, before we saw any signs of the old cheat moving him¬ 
self towards fulfilling his contract. Here was change to me ; for 
had any Persian of a similar occupation presumed to treat a 
European traveller with the like dishonesty and insolence, the 
hospitable spirit of that country would have allowed a ready 
redress, even by the stick or whip of the offended party; but in 
these Turkish districts, a Frangy dare not wag a finger against 
an Osmanlee; and therefore, whatever his injury, must quietly 
submit. 
With regard to the fare in the post-house, contenting myself 
with bread, eggs, and coffee, I did not regret detention on that 
score; but the Tatars were in a rage at such simple diet, and 
every time the meal appeared before them their wrath met it in 
volleys. All persons who halt at these places, under the rank of 
viziers, pashas, and serraskiers, whether they be masters or 
servants, squat down to the same board with the people of the 
hostel, from its proud keeper to the meanest trencher-cleaner, 
and mingle their fingers in the great general dish. This huge 
mess stands in the middle of the tray, on a low circular table 
usually laid out with as many pieces of bread as there are guests. 
The other ingredients of the breakfast are commonly thickened 
milk; with two plates of curdy goats’ cheese, a little honey, and 
some grape-syrup. At mid-day, bread and dried or ripe fruit 
are given. At sun-set, a kind of soup, and a stew of mutton or 
goat’s flesh, mixed with sweetened gravy and onions, and a 
pillau of wheat. The dishes are served in rotation, and placed 
in the middle of the tray ; round which the eaters sit on their 
heels, ready with their fingers or spoons to dip into each re- 
