GARIDI, ANCIENT CRATIA, &c. 723 
rebel chief; but who paid the forfeit of his outrage, by the loss 
of his head. 
November 24th. — We left our quarters this morning at seven 
o’clock, taking a direction S. 60° W., over a hilly road, sterile 
and bleak. At a distance of a couple of miles we passed the 
village of Pyandor; the river then bent south, but we continued 
our first course for fourteen miles farther, which we completed 
at a very fast rate, and stopped for coffee at one of the common 
vending places. From that point the road became more hilly, 
but varied occasionally with woods. We reached our post-house 
at Garidi in five hours; it is called seven from Hummumloo ; 
the distance I should rate at twenty miles. The latter part of 
our road was nearly due west. 
Garidi is a respectable little town; and, according to D’Anville, 
was the ancient Cratia or Flavianopolis. Here industry seems 
in great activity; large manufactories going on of copper utensils, 
and for tanning and staining a thick durable leather a dark red, 
similar to that we name Russian, in Europe. Great quantities 
are taken to Constantinople, to be made up into boots, and the 
enormous saddle-bags used by the Tatars. We were detained for 
horses until three o’clock, at which hour we mounted, and 
changed our line of march a little to the north of west. The 
country was grateful to the eye, being pasturage and woodlands, 
thickly sprinkled with flocks of the beautiful fleecy goat. In 
about an hour we came to a small rural vale, animated with 
several villages; and crossing it, saw a little lake called the 
Changgy Giuelly, quite in the middle of its plain. For about six 
miles, we kept this mass of waters in view to our right; and then 
entered a narrow valley. Twilight had now deepened into such 
a gloom that not more than the general outlines of objects were 
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