SCUTARI. 
737 
likely to be made in perpetuating the memories of the higher 
ranks. Workmen were busily employed in their respective ma¬ 
nufactures. Some of them are richly carved and gilt, or painted 
with various colours. Each grave possesses two, one at the head, 
and the other at the foot ; the first, a square shaft, usually 
rising to about four feet, surmounted by a turban, the form and 
varied tints of which announce the degree or employment of the 
deceased. A tablet beneath contains an appropriate inscription, 
and generally from the koran. A long slab covers the body, 
presenting the extraordinary appearance of being perforated with 
holes, through which the most beautiful and fragrant flowers 
blow, and scatter their leaves on the stone beneath. 
The suburb of Scutari is of great extent, stretching an im¬ 
mense way along the shore of the Bosphorus, and immediately 
opposite to Pera, it occupies the site of Chrysopolis. Near the 
western opening, we find a village called Kadi-Kiuy, marking 
the situation of ancient Chalcedon. We reached Scutari at 
one o’clock, plunging at once into its narrow, crowded, and 
plague-infested streets, which gradually brought us to the water’s 
edge; there a refreshing breeze bade us welcome; and the 
capital of the Constantines rose indeed before us, spreading 
over the opposite range of hills with an amplitude of grandeur, 
hardly to be described. We soon procured a boat to waft us 
over ; and at a short distance from the shore passed a high rock, 
surmounted by a tower, called that of Leander. We rowed 
direct to the custom-house, but thanks to His Excellency, and 
Mr. Cartwright, our Consul-General, I had no occasion either to 
leave our little barque, or to send my baggage to the dangerous 
receptacle; and in two hours after entering Scutari, I found 
myself within the walls of the British palace. Sir Robert and 
5 B 
VOL. II. 
