768 LEAVES PER A. 
Count Lutzoph, and also those of their amiable families, must 
ever rise in my mind with the images of this shore; peopling its 
banks with the fairest, and the kindest forms. Having bidden 
them adieu, I returned to the British palace in Pera to receive 
my credentials for final departure; namely, a firman for horses 
to the Turkish frontier, another to custom-house people, pass¬ 
ports, &c.; also dispatches from the English ambassador at the 
Porte, to Mr. Cassmajor, our minister at St. Petersburgh. And 
having got all together, the hour of separation drew near. I 
shook hands with my valuable friend, Mr. Cartwright, our consul- 
general, to whose prompt services, on many occasions, I owe so 
much. To my unweariedly kind host and hostess, I could only 
repeat a gratitude which every British traveller, who visits that 
country while they are its residents, must well know how to 
share. When I bade farewell to Sedak Beg, my faithful Persian, 
it was as if I had severed a limb ; he had so long been “ the 
staff of my rest,” in all my journeyings and dangers ; but we 
parted, — I trust, to meet again. 
January 30th. — This morning, at ten o’clock, attended by my 
Russian, and a Janissary belonging to the embassy of Bucharest, 
I finally turned my back on hospitable Pera; but instead of 
crossing the Golden Horn , and traversing the city, went round by 
the valley of Les Eaux Douces. Having gained the hills to the 
westward, and passed their treeless summits, a ride of a few miles 
brought us to the mosque and kiosk (summer palace) of Dowd 
Pasha. From that spot I took a last look of Constantinople, its 
lofty minarets having long appeared amongst the hills. Our 
road continued along the coast of the sea of Marmora, over the 
country of the ancient Thracians, now called Rumelia. At two 
o’clock we reached the village of Kouchouck-chek-maza, calcu- 
