85 
from the place where we passed a lock, which is the last that oc¬ 
curs in the next seventy miles. The land appeared to be marshy, 
and consisted of sand and pebbles. 
Utica, which is intersected by the canal, is a flourishing town, 
of about four thousand inhabitants, and stands upon the site 
where Fort Schuyler, a redoubt against the Indians, was formerly 
situated. In 1794, there was a small tavern here, which was the 
only dwelling house in this part of the country; but at present 
Utica is one of the most flourishing towns in the state of New 
York, and new houses are continually building. In fact, it is 
only here that a person begins to admire the great improvements 
in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man, 
and of his enterprising genius! Utica, on the right bank of the 
Mohawk, has two banks, four churches, an academy, and large 
and convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing-office. It has 
also several ale-houses, and three fine taverns, at the largest of 
which, called Shepherd’s* hotel, we found excellent accommoda¬ 
tions. In this house there are always more than seventy beds for 
the accommodation of strangers; and these, on some occasions, are 
barely sufficient. The number of travellers this summer, is said 
to have been unusually great, especially from the southern states, 
where the heat is intolerable, and the summers generally" un¬ 
healthy. In such an American tavern every thing is perfectly 
comfortable, and proportionably cheap. The price for board and 
lodging is a dollar a day. The bell for. rising rings before seven 
o’clock in the morning. The bed-chambers are spacious, the beds 
wide and comfortable, and the linen fine and perfectly clean. The 
bed-chambers, moreover, are furnished with the necessary wash- 
stands, &c. After a person is dressed, he enters the bar-room, 
where he finds all kinds of strong and refreshing drinks; the desk 
of the head waiter is also here, who attends to the bill. The inn¬ 
keeper is generally a gentleman, who eats with the guests, and 
leads the conversation. Besides the entry, where the boots and 
shoes are left in the evening, and where they are found well 
cleaned in the morning, there are several sitting, reading, and 
writing parlours, &c. And if a person wishes a separate sitting- 
room, especially when he travels with ladies, it may be readily 
had at a separate charge. Half an hour after rising, they ring the 
bell for breakfast; and, upon going to the dining-room, you find 
upon a covered table, beef-steaks, mutton, broiled chicken, or 
other fowls, fish, and boiled potatoes, which are of a very supe¬ 
rior quality. The waiters, or in many places, the servant-maids, 
hand the coffee and tea. As the Americans, in general, are a 
quiet people, such a breakfast, which is eaten in great haste, is 
attended with but little noise. Dinner is generally served at about 
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