226 
THE EISHING GAZETTE 
[March 25, 1893 
stones to them, and sink them in the swim. Pish 
a couple of days later, and bait with paste or 
cubes, or fragments of crust. I believe I invented 
this idea (doubtless others have also done so), and 
have often tried the plan with much success. 
This chapter may not, perhaps, seem as compre¬ 
hensive as it might be on the subjects of Thames 
and Trent methods of fishing, even taken with 
the numerous additions I have made to it. The 
reader should, however, bear in mind that it is to 
be read in connection with the rest of the book. 
Ill other chapters minute directions as to baits, 
tackle, swims, &c., are given, and it is hardly 
necessary to repeat such information here.—J. Ih] 
ZIG-ZAG ROUTES TO CHICAGO 
FOR ANGLERS. 
(Continued from page 148.) 
By Rcx. 
CoNTiNUiNCi the journey westward from Wood- 
stock the railway runs nearly parallel to that of 
the Canadian Pacific to London, and thence to 
Sarnia. Here the train passes by tunnel under 
the St. Clair River to Port Huron, and proceeding 
by several towns, the principal of which are La 
l*eer, Lansing, Battle Creek, Soult Bend, and 
Valparaiso, at last lands us at the scene of the 
World’s Pair, Chicago. 
Having led the tourist to Chicago over some 
of the best sporting routes in Canada, we will 
now turn our attention to a few pleasant trips 
that can be made in the domain of Uncle Sam, 
as we journey on our way to the scene of the 
World’s Pair, at the Lake Michigan Metropolis. 
Some of the scenery through which we will 
ramble is, indeed, beautiful, and many and many 
are the sparkling streams we shall traverse that 
hold fish. Not that the sport to be had in any 
of them will compare with that available by the 
zig-zag angling routes of the Canadian Dominion, 
which, for salmon and trout fishing in the true 
Waltonian style, have no equal this side of the 
Styx River. What kind of piscatorial menu 
awaits the followers of rod and line on the oppo¬ 
site shores of this dark stream is unknown to me, 
and can only be ascertained by conferring with 
the pages of the very latest edition of “ Enquire 
AWthin.” 
I will presume that the traveller has sailed 
from Liverpool for New York by one of the 
speedy Atlantic “ greyhounds ” which, having 
carefully ploughed her way over the “ Lane ” route, 
is now rapidly approaching the shores of the 
great continent discovered over 400 years ago by 
the courageous mariner, Christopher Columbus. 
Approaching the coast, we suddenly hear the 
voice of the man on the look-out at the forecastle 
head calling out that there is land in sight on 
the starboard bow, and a few minutes later Long 
Island becomes visible to the eager eyes of those 
on deck. Three hours afterwards we cross the 
bar at Sandy Hook. To the left are the lofty 
lighthouses which crown the summit of the 
Highlands of Naversink, on the shores of New 
Jersey. Altering her course, our floating palace 
now turns north, and crossing Lower Bay enters 
the Narrows. To the west’ard is the beautiful 
Staten Island, and to the east is Long Island 
and Port Hamilton, near to which, in mid-stream, 
is Port Lafayette. Three miles further on is the 
quarantine station, where, for a time, we drop 
anchor, and are quickly visited by the health 
officer and the custom-house authorities. Receiv¬ 
ing a clean bill of health, we are soon under 
weigh, and steaming up stream. Right ahead of 
us is the City of New York ; to our left is the 
Hudson River, on the western shore of which is 
Jersey City, and on the right is Brooklyn, sepa¬ 
rated from New York by the East River, and 
spanned by the wonderful suspension bridge, 
one of the greatest engineering works of modern 
times. Passing Governor’s Island, with its old 
fort, to starboard, to port is Bedloe's Island, pn 
which stands the colossal statue of Liberty. 
Shortly afterwards we enter the harbour, and are 
landed at the pier, when, having had a satisfac¬ 
tory interview with the custom-house officers, we 
enter a hack, and are (juickly driven to the 
Urammarcy Park Hotel, off Pourth-avenue. This 
is by no means one of the largest hotels, but it 
is extremely comfortable, and a very favourite 
establishment with Englishmen. As a matter of 
course we sojourn in “ Gotham ” for a few days. 
We stroll up Broadway, and through Union- 
square into Pifth-avenue, the “Mayfair” of 
New York. We even venture to take a peep at 
the long, broad thoroughfareknowuas the Bowery. 
We dine at Delmonico’s, put in an appearance at 
either Booth’s or Wallack’s theatre, and then, 
having partaken of a real good American 
oyster “ stoo,” or pan-roast, at a restaurant, we 
retire to rest. The next morning we are up 
betimes, and immediately after breakfast start 
off for a drive in Central Park, and in the 
afternoon visit the principal lions of the city, 
too numerous to give in detail, but all interesting 
to the stranger. Having done the city, we then 
travel further afield, and ramble off to some of 
the fashionable environs—Long Branch, Coney 
Island, Staten Island, and hosts of other pleasant 
resorts in easy distance of the great “ Gotham”— 
that afford ample amusement to the sight-seeing 
tourist. But time is up, and we must away to 
the mountain streams. Up with the chirrup of 
the sparrows (no larks), bill paid, 6.30 a.m. finds 
us on the wharf at the foot of Vestry-street, 
where, boarding the steamer, we bid adieu to 
New York, and we quickly leave the “ madding 
crowd,” and are gently gliding up the tide of the 
beautiful Hudson River. At a distance of ten 
miles from the big city we reach that portion of 
Manhattan Island known as Washington Heights, 
the only part which still retains the natural at¬ 
tractions that in the days of yore rendered the 
isle so beautiful. Beneath the Heights is Jeffrey’s 
Hook, and among the cedar trees are mounds 
which mark the site of an old redoubt. Further 
up stream we reach Hackensack, opposite the 
lower end of the Palisades, which stretch in an 
unbroken wall of solid rock for over twenty miles 
along the river bank. The height of these 
bluffs vary from 300 to 500 feet above the level of 
the stream, and they are crowned by a luxuriant 
growth of trees and shrubberies, in the midst of 
which are charming villas, commanding delight¬ 
ful views of the winding Hudson and Manhattan 
Island. Forging ahead, the mouth of the 
picturesque “ Sputen Duvil” comes in sight— 
a foaming burn that years ago was the scene of 
many a sanguinary encounter. Immediately 
opposite to the creek is a high point of the 
Palisades, which, projecting far into the stream, 
is an excellent point of vantage from where to 
view the truly exquisite panorama. Half-a-mile 
distant, in rear of the Palisades, is the fertile 
valley of the Hackensack, the stream affording 
some good trout fishing. Cruising on, our next 
stop is at Yonkers, situated at the mouth of the 
rapid Neperah, where, in 1609, the daring pioneer, 
Hudson, anchored when exploring the river. 
Passing several picturesque villages, wo enter 
Tappan Bay, where the Hudson expands to a 
width of nearly four miles. From here the 
Palisades gradually recede from the river bank 
and lose their precipitous character. The ridge, 
however, continues in a series of hills, attaining 
in some places a height of nearly 700 feet, but 
assuming nowhere the peculiar palisade forma¬ 
tion. Continuing up stream, at a distance of 
twenty-five miles from New York we arrive at 
Irvington, named in honour of Washington 
Irving, the genial author whose pen has done so 
much to preserve everything of interest in the 
history of the Hudson River. Then comes 
pleasant Sunny side, a dreamy little village where 
the historian spent his latter years, and a few 
miles further on is Tarrytown, that recalls many 
a thrilling event of British warfare. Journeying 
on, we pass Sing Sing, where is the State prison 
of New York, beyond which is the mouth of the 
Croten River, that supplies the metropolis with 
fresh water. As the boat proceeds, the tops of 
distant Highlands are distinctly visible, although 
their bases are hidden by intervening hills. The 
long ridge of shore towards which the steamer 
now heads is Donderberg, nearly 1,000 feet high. 
On the west bank of the stream stands the 
village of Haverstraw, and just above Croten 
Point the beautiful Haverstraw Bay is entered. 
Presently the neat little hamlet of Peckskill 
comes in view, from which all places of interest 
in the Highlands can b^ easily reached. Op¬ 
posite Peckskill is Caldwell’s Landing, above 
which rise the rock crags of Donderberg, or 
Thunder Mountain, at the foot of which are 
supposed to be hidden the treasures of Captain 
Kidd. Several vain attempts have been made 
to recover the “ white elephant,” but as we have 
fish to fry we pass on. The river here narrows, 
and between this bend and the next is called the 
Race. On the east bank beyond the Donderberg 
is St. Anthony’s Nose, over 1,200 feet high—a 
good old aquiline nose that could stand any 
amount of punishment, even from the great 
John L. S. To the west is seen the lovely isle of 
Iona. Gliding upward, the stream now widens 
out, and Cranston’s Landing is reached, on the 
heights above the village being Cranston’s Hotel, 
commanding a magnificent view of the river. 
Our next halt is at a little town called Beverly 
Dock, and almost immediately opposite are the 
white, foaming Buttermilk Palls. Leaving 
Beverly, a short run brings us to AYest Point, 
and as we approach the landing we behold the 
United States Military Academy. From the 
piazza of the West Point Hotel, which stands on 
a terrace above the town, the tourist has a view 
to the north of one of the most lovely river 
passes on the Western Continent. It reminds 
one somewhat of the fjords of Norway, as the 
entire north-west and south-west horizon is shut 
out from view by precipitous hills, from 600 to 
1,500 feet high. Leaving West Point, we pass 
many pretty villages, nestling in the midst of 
charming scenery, amongst which are Plough- 
keipsie, Hyde Park, and Rondant. Further up 
stream we arrive at Tivoli, on the east bank, 
where we catch a splendid view of the Catskill 
Mountains, and if the day be clear wo sight the 
popular hotel, the Mountain House. Prom 
Tivoli, a short trip carries us to Catskill 
Landing, where we disembark, and, taking up 
our quarters at the Irving Hotel, prepare for an 
expedition into the mountains. 
Making an early start, we proceed to the 
Mountain House, which can be reached by train 
and omnibus, but as the drive is a pleasant one 
we will make the journey by coach. All being 
ready we take our seats, and with a “ Geet up 
thar, Jude,” from the driver, we are soon spinning 
along the old stage-road. A quarter of an hour’s 
ride takes us to the village, which we pass 
through, and then, crossing the Catskill Creek, 
we bowl over the highway till we reach the 
Half-Way House, where we alight and drink to 
the memory of Rip Van Winkle. Our thirst 
assuaged, we resume our seats, and the coach 
rumbling along soon enters a secluded dell, 
which tradition affirms to be the spot where the 
easy-going Rip, with rod and gun beside him, lay 
down and took his extended tour in the land of 
“ Nod.” Soon after leaving the valley we enter a 
long level plain, and, all now being smooth-going, 
Jehu increases the speed of the four quadrupeds 
attached to the vehicle, till we reach the foot of 
Pine Orchard Mountain. Then comes the tug of 
war, and slowly we ascend by winding terraces, 
till finally we alight at the Mountain House, 
perched on a spur 2,500 feet above the water 
level of the Hudson. 
To enter into any lengthened details respecting 
this charming district would bo outside the 
the province of this.article, and as it has been 
geographically and minutely described by Irving, 
I would suggest that all visitors to the Catskill 
region should arrive on the scene each one 
provided with a pocket edition of the Sleeping 
Sportsman—Rip Van Winkle. Prom the lilountain 
House Hotel the view has scarcely an equal in 
the United States, embracing as it does on a 
clear day the magnificent scenery of the Hudson 
Valley, the Berkshire Hills, the Green Mountains, 
and the attractive panorama of the Catskills. 
Prom the hotel several excursions can be taken 
up some of the lofty mountain peaks, and to the 
very beautiful falls, the most attractive being 
the Catskill Palls and Haine’s Palls. Near the 
latter is the romantic ravine of Kaaterskill 
Close, in which is the lovely Pawn’s Tjeap, where, 
over a hanging ledge, the stream descends thirty 
feet into a deep chasm below. 
When Rip Van Winkle was a boy, game and 
fish were no doubt plentiful in this region, 
although there is no record of the youth ever 
making a big bag or a heavy basket. Prom all 
one can learn, he wandered through the woods 
and flogged the streams to little purpose, and 
finally finding that “ whipping the Cat ” was all 
useless, in sheer desperation he lay down and 
slept for twenty years. Be this correct or other¬ 
wise, the visiting angler at the present will have 
