m L O N- 
health of the mind as well as of the body. On the other 
tide, the lively exhibition of carpets and other articles of 
V.phol!tery makes a cheerful appearance ; and leads the eye 
to the gay-and elegant lottery-office a few houfes below, 
which is 1'et out with a great deal of tafte, and confe- 
quently of expenfe. Nearly oppoiite on the right-hand, 
turning round by the paftry-cook’s (hop,-opens Ave-Maria- 
lane, leading to Warwick-lane—The names of this and 
feveral others about St. Paul’s feem to have been adopted 
on account of the canons and prebendaries of the church, 
who moft likely had their dwellings there, and recited 
■thofe fhort prayers in their way to the church through thofe 
flreets. Stow, however, [farts an opinion fomewhat dif¬ 
ferent; for he fays, fpeaking of Paternoffir-row, the houies 
of which were firSt built by Henry Walleis, mayor in 
3282 ; “ This ftreete is now called Paternojler-rowe, becaufe 
.of [fationers or text-writers, that dwelled there, who 
wrote and fold all forts of bookes then in ufe, namely, 
ABC, with the Paternolier, Ave, Creed, Grace, See. 
There dwelled al'fo turners of beads ; and they were called 
Pat'’rnoJler-n\skevs, (the chaplet or rofary is compofed of 
•beads, upon which Paters and ayes are recited,) as I read 
in a record of one Robert Nikke, Paternolfer-maker, and 
citizen, in the reign of Henry IV. and fo of other. At the 
end of this Paternofter-rowe is Ave-Maria-lane , fo called 
-upon the like occafion of text-writers and bead-makers 
then dwelling there.”— Creed-lane, on the oppoiite fide of 
Ludgate-hill, obtained its denomination from either of 
the caufes above Hated ; but was previoufly called Spur¬ 
riers' Rorvc , from the number of fpur-makers which were 
anciently the principal inhabitants of this narrow winding 
-flreet. About eighteen years ago, the pavement of Great 
Garter-lane having been (or a long period of time out of 
repair, Creed-lane was conftantly filled with coal-wag¬ 
gons, drays, and other carriages, afeending from Black- 
friars-bridge through St. Andrew’s hill; but is now ge¬ 
nerally avoided, on account of its narrownefs. A little 
below, on the fame fide of the way, may be feen the cu¬ 
rious contrivance of the fpeaking-pipes, through which a 
eonftant and eafy communication may be kept by words 
throughout all the apartments of a large houfe ; a con¬ 
trivance which at once explains the principle of the fpeak¬ 
ing figures with which the town has been occafionally 
amufed and aftoniftied. Oppoiite again, the church of St. 
Martin, Ludgate, makes an agreeable appearance; the 
iteeple is of a curious form, Hands on a fquare Hone tower, 
and ends in a [harp fpear, with a gallery at the bottom, 
the whole from the tower being covered with lead : over 
the door Hill remains the winglefs head of a cherub, 
carved in Hone, which retains fome vefliges of good work- 
manfiiip : the poor thing was clipped dole about ten 
years lince, and feems to bear on its melancholy vifage 
marks of the forrow occafioned by fuch treatment. Seve¬ 
ral mofi elegant fliops of linen-drapers, mercers, and fil- 
ver-fmiths, attraft the attention of the itinerant on both 
fides of the way. Next to this church Hands the London 
Cofree-houfe, one of the beH of this kind, and generally 
frequented by the bell company : the premifes are molt 
extenfive, and the roof of the houfe Hands on a level with 
that of St. Paul’s below the dome. An archway on the 
other fide leads to the Broadway in Blacldliars, and thence 
through Water-lane, or Union-Hreet, to the bridge. This 
archw ay is called Pilgrim-pajfage ; and from this point, 
whereabout the ancient Lud-gate Hood, the view difplays 
itfelf, and becomes more interefting. 
“A fide-glance a little lower down on the right takes 
in the whole of the Old Bailey, a diftant view of Smith- 
field, the eafiern part of St. Sepulchre’s church, the pump, 
the Compter, Newgate, and the Sefiions-houfe; but the 
traveller cannot help heaving a deep and melancholy figh 
at the fad recollection of how many malefaclors have 
from that quarter been “ launched into eternity.” 
“If the traveller happens to come down the hill on a 
Sunday or Thurfday night, or on the whole of Monday 
DON. 
orFriday, he will find his way ronfiderably impeded by (he 
rencontre of thoufands of (heep and oxen going to and 
coming from Smithfield-market: the barking of dogs, 
lowing of cattle, bawling of drovers and butchers, and the 
fere a : rii s of frightened females, will a [fault his ears with a 
molt unharmonious concert; and he will liafien from a 
feene not only attended with danger, but alio with regret 
at beholding fo many viftims doomed to bleed for our fufte- 
nance. But to this he will foon perhaps reconcile himfelf, 
when he reflects, that uecefiity here commands the deftruc- 
tion of animals for the fubfiltence of millions of men, 
whilft armies of our fellow-creatures are facriiiced to the 
ambition of a few. 
“From thefe conflicting thoughts the mind will be di¬ 
verted by the moving group of Cyprians who generally 
ply at the entrance o f Cock-court, (exactly oppofite the Old 
Bailey,) which leads alfo on the left to the Broadway, and 
on the right to a paflage which feems to have been acci¬ 
dentally perforated through the ancient city-walls. The 
exhibition of prints and drawings at the corner window 
will intereft the mind of the pafienger, and gratify his 
tafie. 
“The fame flream of elegance, richnefs, and fplendour, 
which I have noticed before, runs down the hill, in the 
appearance of the houfes, the fitting-up. of the [hops, and 
the exhibition of articles of fale. On the left fide, Dol¬ 
phin-court, leading to a public houfe which has borne this 
name for many centuries, will take you to a fmall lane run¬ 
ning parallel with Ludgate-hill; and next to the court, the 
attention is called to the Hope Infuranee-Office. A large 
Hone figure of this fecond of the theological virtues; ra¬ 
ther too [hort for its bulk, is placed over the main en¬ 
trance, and has a good efteCt ; her right hand points to 
heaven, arid her left refis upon the anchor, an emblem 
of the bulinefs tranfafted in the houfe. Oppofite is Naked- 
boy-court, the meaning of which I cannot eafily alcertain 
or guefs; unlefs I refer it to the unnatural act of expofing 
children, which, being perhaps lels frequent and feen with 
more horror in ancient times tiian it is now, was deemed 
fuflicient to Higmatize the place, 
•-Where, with averted looks, 
And furtive hands, the guilty mother drops 
Th’ unlanCHon’d pledge of an illicit love, 
Her new-born, guiltlels, babe;—and leaves it bare 
To face the lefs inclement iky ; till Heaven 
Sends gentle Pity down, to take it lafe, 
And place it on the. lap of Charity. Z. 
“From this fpot the view extends up to Fleet-fireet 
nearly as far as St. Dunfian’s church. But, if we turn 
round juft at this point, how grand, how majtftic, is the 
appearance of St. Paul’s on the brow of the hill ! Al¬ 
though the fulnefs of the afpeCt is often intercepted by 
the elbowing and irregular fouth fide of the hill, and the 
fteeple of St. Martin, on the left, interfeCling perpendi¬ 
cularly, but not precluding, the view of the fplendid me¬ 
tropolitan Balilica ; the grandeur of the edifice imprefles 
upon the mind a Itrong fenfe of veneration and of awe.— 
Indeed, is there any thing equal to it ? When, from their 
low and dirty ftreets, the Roman tribunes called up the 
attention of the deluded citizens to the venerable Capitol, 
had they .fuch an objeCt in view? St. Peter itfelf, the 
chef d'ceuvre of Bramante, though built upon a much larger 
icale, yields -to St. Paul’s in point of iituation and external 
appearance ; and, when the filver rays of the moon, play¬ 
ing around the dome, dart, in a torrent of light, down the 
hill, and project on the greatefl part of Ludgate-ftreet the 
lengthened fliadow of this noble edifice, the feene allumes 
fuch a folemnity, that I never can witnefs it without the 
livelieft emotions of devotion and refpeCh 
“To return to my defeription; I muft point out on one 
fide at the bottom the elegant Insurance-office of the Albion , 
its neat and claffical portico in Bi idge-ftreet, and the ani¬ 
mated group of the far-famed knight Monfieur St. George 
1 flaying 
