HUSBAND II Y. 51:5 
.gefted, that, when the feafon is hot, the quality of the 
cheefe might be improved, and the difficulty of its being 
made leflened, by cooling down the milk as foon as pof- 
lible by repeatedly drawing off and returning it to the 
cooler. 
The quantity of cream that is ufed is generally differ¬ 
ent, according as they are one-meal, or two-meal, cheefes. 
In Chefliire the general cuftom, in the bell dairies, is to 
take about a pint of cream, when two-mcal cheefes are 
made, from the night's milk of twenty cows. In order 
to make cheefe of the belt quality and in the. greatelt 
abundance, it is admitted that the cream fhould remain 
in the milk; but whether the cream that is once feparated 
from it can by any means be again fo intimately united 
with it as not to undergo a decompolition in the after- 
procefs, admits of fome doubt. There is, at lead, no ab¬ 
surdity in attempting to prevent the feparation of two 
bodies which it is the prcfeffed intention to unite again. 
If a cheefe made entirely of the night’s milk on which 
the cream has rifen be as rich as one made of new milk, 
all other circumftanees being alike, it is a proof that milk 
and cream after being feparated may, by heating alone, 
become as it were new-milk again. Experiment alone 
can decide this point; but the practice here is to unite 
the milk and cream; and the dairymen fay, that when fo 
united it differs not from new-milk as to the purpofes of 
cheefe-making. 
If the whole milking be direftly made ufe of in its 
fimple Hate for the cheefe, it is denominated a one-mcal 
cheefe; but where two milkings are blended, or two-meal 
cheefe made, the quality of the milk ufed differs con- 
iiderably ; in I'ome cafes the whole of the cream of the 
fii'lt meal is abftrafted, and in all cafes a certain portion. 
In i'ome dairies the milk of the firft meal is fet in the leads 
or other velfels as ufual ; and, as it is the evening’s milk 
that is in common added to the fncceeding morning’s, 
the operation of cheefe-making begins immediately after 
that of the morning milking is completed, as about five 
or fix o’clock. The cream of the evening milk being 
Ikimmed off, the milk is carried and put into the cheefe- 
tub, referring fometimes a half, fometimes a third, but 
more frequently only three or four gallons, to be applied 
as below. The milk referved, in any of thefe proportions, 
after being put into a brafs pan and made fcaldirig hot, 
by placing-the pan on a furnace or in a veil'd of hot wa¬ 
ter, is one half of it poured into the cheefe-tub among 
the cold milk, and the other into the pan in which the 
cream had been put. The cream and the hot milk being 
intimately incorporated, the whole is poured into the 
cheefe-tub, which by this time has received a great addi¬ 
tion, if not the whole, of the morning’s milk, warm from 
the cows. Thus the different meals’ milk forms, as it 
were, a fluid of the fame nature, equal in quality and 
temperature, and to which the rennet is applied in the 
ufual manner. This re-union, or, in the dairy-phrafe, 
melting the cream , is probably the bell method praftifed ; 
but it is, we believe, not fo effectual in forming cheefe 
of the bed: quality as that where the milk is entirely new. 
In making Ikim-milk cheefes, the milk is fet in the 
leads or pans as ufual, in which ftate it remains longer or 
Ihorter according to the weather, care being taken to 
lkim off the cream, or to drain off the milk, in proper 
time, before it begins to acquire a fouriflr talte. If that 
fliould at any time happen, either from the exceflive heat 
of the weather, or owing to fome inattention in the ge¬ 
neral management; in place of putting the lkim-mllk 
upon the furnace to give it that degree of heat fuppofed 
to be neceffary for facilitating the coagulation after the 
rennet is applied, and which is the ufual praftice, the 
method is, to put it direclly into the cheefe-tub, and to 
pour in fuch a quantity of hot water as will give the 
wiflied-for temperature. By this means, the rilk of the 
milk breaking while heating on the furnace, which when 
not quite fweet and frelh it is apt to do, is avoided with¬ 
out inconvenience in other refpefts. 
. Vol. X. No. 68o. 
Milk may be coagulated, or turned into a curdled Hate, 
by the application of alum, or any fort of acid ; but that 
fubftance which is molt commonly ufed in the making of 
cheefe, is the maw or ftomach of a young calf prepared 
for the purpofe, and called, rennet. The maws, which 
ufually contain a curdled kind of fubftance, on being 
purchafed from the butcher, are opened, and the curd or 
thick fubftance taken out; this, having been repeatedly 
walhed in cold water, as well as the bag which contained 
it, is again replaced, with a confiderable addition of fait, 
and then packed in a jar, into which is poured a very 
ft.rong brine of fait and water. In many inftances the 
maws are allowed to remain in this ftate lor about twelve 
months before ufing ; in others, after having remained 
for fome time covered with the brine, they are taken out; 
and, an additional quantity of fait being applied, they are 
bung up in the dairy, or fome other convenient place, to 
dry, and remain in that ftate for ufe.- But, from the 
preparation in this mode being made at different times, 
there mull be a great diiference in their ftrength, and of 
courfe in their elfefts, either when made ufe of after be¬ 
ing fteeped in fome fort of liquid, or in the piece. 
From the practice of colouring cheefe, which has been 
fo long common in the cheefe-diltriffs, it is probable 
that thofe of the belt quality would be in a great me a lure 
unfaleable, if they did not poffefs the requifite colour. 
The introduction of this practice originated in the inten¬ 
tion of conveying an idea of richnefs ; and the leaned: 
cheefe always requires the greateft quantity of colour to 
bring it to the proper appearance. The material which is 
ufually employed for this purpofe is Spanifti arnotta. The 
weight of half an ounce of it is conlidered in Chefliire 
fufficient for a cheele of 6olbs. and in Gloucefterfliire an 
ounce is the common allowance'to the hundred-weight. 
There are different ways of preparing as well as of apply¬ 
ing it. The method ufed in Chefliire is, when the dye is 
wanted in the morning, to tie up the necefthry quan¬ 
tity of pounded arnotta in a linen rag, and to put it into 
about half a pint of warm water the preceding even¬ 
ing. In the morning, immediately before applying the 
rennet, the infufion of arnotta is poured into the milk, 
and the mixture is then well ftirred about, lb as to make 
the milk and the dye incorporate intimately together. In 
other diftrifls it is common to rub a piece of impounded 
arnotta, after having been previoufly dipped in milk, on 
a l'mooth Hone, in the fame manner that paint is ground. 
The colouring thus obtained is mixed with the milk in 
the cheefe-tub, in the manner and at the period before 
mentioned, care being taken to prevent any of the unre¬ 
duced particles of arnotta from falling into it. 
The degree of temperature which milk ought to poffefs, 
fo as to be in the heft poffible condition for applying the 
rennet, is a point by no means fully decided. It is, 
however, admitted that the quantity and quality, or tex¬ 
ture of the curd, depend much on the length of time the 
curd is in forming, and that on the quantity and ftrength 
of the coagulum employed, the ftate of the atmofpher®, 
and the heatof the milk, at the period of its being mixed. 
Mr. Marlhall obferves that “ it is known from daily ex¬ 
perience, that, the warmer the milk is when the rennet is 
put to it, the fooner it will coagulate with a given quan¬ 
tity of rennet of a given ftrength. It is equally well 
known, that the cooler the milk, and the longer it is in 
coagulating, the more tender and delicate the curd be¬ 
comes ; on the contrary, if the milk be too hot, and the 
coagulation takes place too rapidly, the curd proves tough 
and liarlh. But it feems to be a fa< 5 l equally well elta- 
blifhed, that a cheefe made from milk which has been 
coolly and ilowly coagulated, is longer before it becomes 
marketable than one made from milk which has under¬ 
gone a lefs deliberate coagulation; and which being drier, 
and of a hardier texture, I'oener becomes cheefey and fit 
for the taller. Therefore, the great art in this ftage of 
the procel's lies in the degree of warmth of the milk when 
fet ; that is, when the rennet is put to it; or in the de- 
6 P gree 
