THE STEPPE. 5 
the erection of more comfortable habitations. A mud fort, of a 
very respectable height, stands on one of its acclivities, effectually 
commanding the approach to the town, by the road I came. A 
small stream, called the Yegal, flows through the little valley 
or dell, dividing the town, and adding much to its cleanliness 
and freshness. The churches, as is the case almost universally 
throughout the Russian empire, are the first objects of attention 
in point of architecture, and are here even elegant. The houses, 
being white-washed, appear exceedingly nice externally; but 
whether the same purity would be found within, may be doubted 
were we to judge by the tout ensemble of the persons who come 
out at the doors. This place, in common with all the others I 
had lately passed through, is mostly inhabited by Jews. From 
scarcity of wood, the dung of cattle is used for purposes of fuel; 
and the inhabitants collect it with great care, forming it into 
cakes, which they dry in the summer sun, for culinary and 
winter use. 
After leaving Elizabethgrad, no cultivation varied the face of 
the Steppe. All was one interminable tract of grazing ground, 
for innumerable herds of horned cattle, sheep, and horses. An 
eye accustomed to the farm-enclosures of England can have no 
idea of the effect of such a scene ; so vast, so full of animal life, 
and yet giving the traveller such an impression of desert 
solitariness. 
We arrived at Nicolaieff, (about one thousand three hun¬ 
dred and thirteen wersts from Moscow ;) and after a short stay 
passed the river Boug in a large passage boat, three miles from 
the town. The width of the river, where we crossed, may be a 
mile and three quarters. We ascended a steep and sandy bank, 
on disembarking, and at its summit found the post-house. From 
t 
