ANNANOUR. 
95 
Between this and the next resting place, our travelling became 
slower; being retarded by intervening ascents and descents of 
several minor hills, and the rockiness of the road. The great 
valley, however, which was still our path, retained its pastoral 
character, as long as we followed the windings of the river. 
While we were leisurely proceeding, the evening closed upon us ; 
but we did not regret the day. A beautiful moon, in a sky 
clearer than any that is seen in Europe at the same hour, shed 
its rays on every object. The effects on the vale, mountains, 
and river, are not to be imagined ; they were so grand, so tran¬ 
quil, reposing in so soft a light. With the advance of night, 
succeeded a severe, but brilliant frost; and the romantic scenery, 
with which we were surrounded, only became more animated 
by the change. Numerous fires appeared at various distances, 
under the shelter of trees, or beneath overhanging masses of 
rock. Around these, were seen groups of Cossacks, mingled 
with Georgians and Mountaineers, whose rude, athletic figures, 
marked countenances, and savage military garbs, formed pictures 
of the wildest character. 
From the fresh air, interesting objects, and free movement 
of such a scene, did we pass, on our arrival at Annanour, at 
once into damp, darkness, and confinement. This is the place, 
appointed for travellers who enter Georgia by the Caucasus, to 
perform a quarantine of four days, before they are permitted to 
pursue their journey. The dirt and wretchedness of the hovels 
which opened to receive us, gave sad warning of our night’s lodg¬ 
ing. No better floor than — I wish I could say, the bare ground, 
damp and noisome ; windows, with neither glass nor shutters ; 
and the nooks, intended for fire-places, in so ruinous a state, that 
no hope could be entertained of putting them to their use. One 
specimen may be enough, of the comforts prepared for the un- 
