168 
GOUMRI. 
with the snows which had now fallen. However, we trod the 
deep and untracked paths of the mountain, with as much haste, 
as exhilaration, to get into a more temperate atmosphere. Two 
hours, carried us over the pass ; and, as we had anticipated, the 
mere change of position, from heighth to depth, brought us to 
something like a warm climate ; at least, comparison made us feel 
it so. The sky was equally brilliant, as when we had seen it from 
above ; while the plain, on which we entered at the foot of the 
hills, reflected a double brightness, from the dazzling white 
with which it was covered. The excessive cold, and all this 
glitter, were rather trying to our eyes ; but they were repaid, by 
the grandeur of a winter mountain-scene, which might have 
reminded one, who had navigated the arctic seas, of regions near 
the pole. 
Our road led to the south-west; and an hour’s more travel 
brought us to the town of Goumri, a strong Russian post, oppo¬ 
site the Turkish frontier. It stands on some rising ground, in 
a good position, has a considerable garrison, and is rapidly 
extending its works. The plain stretches round it for several 
miles, and then is sublimely encircled with mountains. The 
range, to the south-east, is surmounted by the Alleguz, a vast 
pile in itself, which, in part, bounds the district of Shuragyll; 
and, from the rocks and caverns in its sides, pours down nu¬ 
merous torrents to the deeper channels at its base; where they 
soon collect into one wide bed, and become a river, which takes 
the name of Ashtarick, or Arpasou. Thence, flowing along, it 
enters Armenia; and, passing near the venerable structure of 
Eit.ch-mai-adzen, waters the plain, till it falls into the Aras, or 
Araxes. 
At Goumri I was to exchange my European or Cossack escort, 
