210 
KHOIG. 
were, generally, fruit-trees, with, here and there, a few vines 
crawling over their roots. 
Making my escape from these wretched quarters, at an early 
hour next day, we pursued our march, south-east, still over the 
plain, which continued in good cultivation for three or four 
miles ; but, at that point, it began to rise in gently undulating 
hills, covered with so thick a mass of loose stones, no culture 
could take place there. When we had passed them, the country 
sunk into flat again, which carried us smoothly along its level, 
to the ruins of a once extensive village, called Oujary ; and, 
not much farther, to those of a spacious caravansary. Thence, 
we ascended a little, to the village of Khoig, where we were 
to halt for the night. It was beyond the Sardar’s lines, and 
stood in a fine situation, overlooking the plain to the north¬ 
west, and a romantic valley to the south. Mount Ararat, 
bearing to the north-west, made a glorious object, as the sun 
sunk behind it. Khoig, holding no subjection to the governor 
of Erivan, his firman was of so much less use here than at De- 
valoo, it did not serve us at all. At the former place, it at last 
wrung from the busy husbandmen a due, though delayed 
obedience; but at Khoig, his commands had not a shadow of 
influence; and the churlish boors persisted to deny us shed, or 
refreshment, for horse or man. However, after threats from 
* 
the mehmandar, and promises of payment on my part, for 
every accommodation that should be provided, at last a den was 
opened to receive us, as full of foul air, dirt, and horrors of that 
kind, as imagination can well conceive. 
Our road, next day, continued south-east, over the plain ; 
which soon lost its fertile appearance; stoney, and barren tracts, 
succeeding to the fine arable and pasture land I so lately de- 
