212 
NACKSHIVAN. 
has too often been the victim of contending swords. The re¬ 
mains of two magnificent mosques still raise their splendid 
domes, over other ruins, in one of the deserted quarters of the 
old capital. One of them, which is called the mosque of 
Zavia, is curiously overlaid with green, blue, and gilded tiles ; 
a gorgeous style of ornament, which appears the peculiar taste 
of the East. The commanding situations which the ancient 
strong-holds of the place still occupy, and the military care that 
is every where manifested in their construction, fully demon¬ 
strate the advantage of the position, and how ably it was de¬ 
fended ; and, when we see how Shah Abbas broke down such 
means of future opposition, we cannot doubt his opinion of 
their strength and consequence. 
Ptolemy mentions the city of Naxuana, which corresponds, 
in name and situation, so entirely with Nackshivan, that I cannot 
but consider them the same place. Formerly, the wine made 
here was celebrated as the best in Armenia ; and its vineyards 
as the most luxuriant and extensive. But nothing more of these 
abundant vines are now to be seen, beyond the walls of two or 
three gardens, where a remnant of grapes may yet be found, 
to mark, perhaps, the spot of some old wine-press. 
A Persian Khan governs this small district, and resides in the 
town; and, from him I readily obtained a proper mehmandar, 
to supply the place of that officer from Erivan, whose duty had 
expired, on my passing into the Khan’s jurisdiction. 
Soon after sun-rise, the following morning, I set forth with 
my new mehmandar ; and, about a mile from the town, crossed 
the river Nackshivan, which at this season of the year is usually 
very low, at a ford near to the ruins of the fine bridge that 
Chardin passed over, when it was entire. It consisted of eleven 
