274 
ZANGOON. 
able position, necessary to receiving the full benefit of the 
glowing embers ; secondly, the nauseous, and often deleterious 
effluvia from the smoke ; and, thirdly, the head-aches which are 
almost always the consequence. Many of the natives put their 
heads and shoulders under the quilt at night; but if the fuel 
have not been previously chared to the proper height, suffocation 
is the usual effect, and the incautious sleepers are found dead 
in the morning. This singular kind of chauffoir answers a 
double purpose; that of preparing the frugal meal of the family, 
either as an oven, or to admit the pot on its embers, which boils 
the meat or pottage. Barbarous as the usage may seem, the 
kourcy is not confined to the wild inhabitants of the mountains; 
it is found in the noblest mansions of the cities, but burning 
more agreeable fuel; and then the ladies sit, from morning till 
night, under the rich draperies spread over the wooden cover; 
awakening their slumbering senses from the soporific influence 
of its vapours, by occasional cups of coffee, or the delightful 
fumes of their kalioun. 
We left Kairan at eight the next morning, in a direction 
south-east; and in spirits, like the changed atmosphere, light, 
and freed from gloom. The hills wore one untracked surface, 
from the snow of the preceding day ; and our old annoyance, a 
strong east wind, continued to blow in our faces ; but the 
weather was now clear; earth, and sky, could be seen to a vast 
distance around us ; and we went cheerily on, over a succession 
of finely undulating hills and dales, till we reached the town of 
Zangoon, or Zanjahoon, a distance of about five farsangs from 
our last lialting-place. This town is of considerable extent, 
and makes a very handsome appearance, as we approach its 
well-built walls, fortified according to the present style of the 
