396 
RUINS OF SOW. 
so genial an atmosphere ; for, at twelve o’clock at noon, the 
thermometer was only 60 Fahrenheit in the shade, which shows 
the delightful temperature of its air. 
In observing the fair sex, who occasionally flitted across our 
way, I remarked some difference in their costume here, from 
what I had seen in any other part of Persia. Besides the chadre, 
or long wrapping drapery, these women wore a smaller interior 
veil, fastened at the crown of the head, passing under the chin, 
and hanging down a short way over the breast; their upper 
coat, was much longer than the usual fashion, falling to the 
knees; and their trowsers rather tighter than those commonly 
in use. The effect produced a lighter air to the person, and the 
dames certainly tripped about with no indolent step. 
May 22d. We left our pleasant quarters between five and 
six o’clock in the morning, perfectly refreshed, and prepared for 
the long tracts of mountain roads yet before us. Something less 
than half an hour’s ride took us totally beyond sight of the happy 
valley, and we struck off, at a brisk pace, amongst the numerous 
ravines, whose winding paths were to form this day’s route. Our 
road varied with these serpentine directions, from south-east to 
south, but the latter was our general bearing. After marching 
about six farsangs, we reached the barren tract of Sow ; a valley 
without a tree, and having only a few meagre spots in culture ; but 
I found a fine caravansary, lately built, and possessing most of the 
accommodations we required. The town of Sow is almost a 
total ruin. Its remains do not stand very far from the caravan¬ 
sary ; but the eye cannot descry one unfractured roof, to offer to 
native or to traveller, excepting a few tolerably entire buildings, 
clustered together on the summit of an adjacent eminence; 
which, from their height, proximity, and elevated situation, from 
