CLIMATE AT ISPAHAN. 
441 
I thought it by far the most delightful spot in the whole range 
of the royal domains, and well worthy the title of the Ninth 
Paradise; the other eight might be deemed the gardens of 
pleasure, but this is the mansion of peace. I enquired for the 
venerable Mirza Mahomed Cassem, who was its head at the 
time Sir Hartford Jones visited Ispahan, and heard, with much 
disappointment, that he had been dead some time. 
I walked, as well as rode, a good deal, during my short so¬ 
journ at Ispahan, being solicitous to see as much of the city as 
my time would allow ; and, to my surprise, I found the climate 
not the least in my way. The mornings were extremely plea¬ 
sant ; and the days, equally so the thermometer in the shade 
seldom exceeding 75 of Fahrenheit. The evenings, however, 
were oppressively close, followed by nights as extremely cold 
and sharp. Being without dew, the scenery around Ispahan is 
deprived of a feature in the landscape, which, in the fine May- 
mornings of Europe, preserves the fresh hue of the verdure, 
and gives brilliancy to every object. At present, (May 31st,) 
no fruits are ripe here; but both cherries and plums are eaten, 
as delicacies, in their crude state. 
June 1st, 1818. Finding the idle pretences of my mehmandar 
increase to an attempt to shake off his duty altogether, and by 
the utterance of the most cunning and impudent falsehoods, to 
persuade me that his office ended at Ispahan, where he should, 
therefore, remain ; I, at last, took the step I ought to have 
done on his first demurring, and notified his behaviour to the 
Governor. Redress was immediate; the insolence of a ser¬ 
vant to a stranger, being considered as reflecting disgrace on his 
master, and an almost unpardonable breach of hospitality to his 
guest. A mandate was instantly issued from the higher powers, 
3 L 
VOL. I. 
