446 
VILLAGE OF MAYAR, 
spot was “ appallingly complexioned” for pillage and murder; 
and, I think it an even chance, that should strong temptation, 
and a promising opportunity occur, these very watchmen of our 
safety might become the principal actors in a scene of midnight 
plunder. Hence, again I recommend to all travellers who 
journey in these perilous tracts, to carry along with them their 
own guards. 
We now began a rather gradual descent, still winding amongst 
the mountains, but which terminated in a valley, bounded by 
abrupt and irregularly formed rocks. The day began to dawn as 
we came in sight of our menzil, near the village of Mayar. It 
was, indeed, welcome as the morn to the whole party, after so 
severe a march ; and at half-past four we entered its just opened 
gates ; having travelled from Ispahan eight farsangs, and from 
the pass of Ourtchiny three. 
June 2d. Mayar is a considerable village, situated in a well- 
cultivated valley, of about three or four miles in width. The 
country around looks cheerful, from its planted fields and 
gardens ; but the spectre-like ruins of other villages, which start 
up at every turning, for ever scare away the pleasurable feelings 
with which we greet views of peculiar rural beauty. The moun¬ 
tains which rise on either side of this fertile vale, are abrupt, 
sterile, and of particularly bold and wild forms. I might have 
thought myself again amongst the most savage tracts of the 
Caucasus, climbing the scarred ridges of a shattered rocky world. 
Their strata run so irregularly, and in such opposite and fractured 
directions, the whole seems as if the Titans had really been at 
war, and this the scene of their tearing up the hills, and pitching 
them against each other, to fall, at any hazard, in the pell-mell 
heaps in which they stand. A fine blueish lime-stone, and a 
reddish sandy rock, appear their principal substance. 
